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They look and are identical, Paul. Only the decals differ.
The only not-so-obvious difference between the SEE and the HMMH is the push button switch on the far (curl) lever on the HMMH, which when pushed in activates the small cylinder on the right side that rotates the forklift.
I might have a...
Oh, it was just an M105A2, so nothing special. And it may and up being used, for something, down the road. It was supposed to become a fueling trailer.
Hopefully it was an isolated incident, but when I bought a trailer located in New Mexico (and payed handsomely, because I needed it) it took several months before a pickup could be arranged.
Supposedly there was only one person doing the job in the entire state, and he was training a...
Wow! Talk about bad luck. I must admit that while I thought about the penetrant catching fire if subjected to heat, I would've never guessed that the pressure buildup could spit out a Zerk fitting. Makes sense, though.
I'm bad about using eye protection, despite numerous visits to the doctor for...
Why not build a rack that's bolted to the sides of the body, rather than to the top of the bed sides? A partial exoskeleton, if you will. It would eliminate any top sealing issues.
I think it would've taken a 4-foot cheater pipe on the grease gun to get anything into the (non-existent) space between the pin and bushing in this case.
But there are three Zerks on the parts SEE's backhoe that won't take grease. Guess I should practice on them.
It's supposedly a model 35C, or when installed on a SEE, an M35C. From what I've found, it's basically a 580B or 580C.
Forgot to ask what model it was when looking at a 580-something that had basic flat stock links (and no spacer) instead of the cast ones.
If the Zerk fittings could be inset in the links, they'd have a chance to survive. Not that it would be hard to make that happen, but I think that the factory left any lubrication points out of this area for a reason.
Yes, I added a Zerk to the sleeve I made, but that wasn't to provide grease to...
I'll go out on a limb here and say that there are two ways. Two correct ways, that is.
But if the goal is to get double the battery voltage, there's only one.
Man, I really am old fashioned. I'm typing this on a computer keyboard, use a camera to take photos with, and carry a flash light. But I do have a flip phone that I use as, well, a phone.
Of course, I don't use adjustable wrenches either (other than as a last resort), instead relying on wrenches...
A K5 tank would be easier to fit, but as mentioned earlier, it sounds like you'll have to modify/swap a cross member or two. Other than that, I'd use factory hardware and sending unit.
Firefox's suggestion of using a second side tank would be easier yet, using either an aftermarket or OE right...
For a Suburban tank to fit, I think you need a longer frame, for starters. Not that I remember exactly how much longer a Suburban is behind the axle compared to a pickup, but about it's about four inches.
That's what a thought (that you used a Jeep), but did you connect it to one of your CUCV batteries or both?
For now, why don't you look at your CUCV as a regular GM car/pickup/SUV with a gas engine of the era? There's not that much difference between them.
Yes, the starter runs on 24 Volt, and...
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