Search results

I'm going on (bad) memory here, but there's very little that is on 24 Volts on a CUCV. Actually, I think the starter is it. Oh, and the Volt meter. When I converted an M1009 to 12 Volts, all I remember doing was changing the starter and removing one alternator. There was a bit more to the...

I searched for something ag/industrial for quite a while, but failed (something I'm pretty good at) to find something suitable. Had I made it to SEMA last year, chances are good that I would've found several options, but I failed in accomplishing that, too.

It'd be quicker to hook the batteries up in series, wouldn't it? Then, if they have indeed survived intact, you can buy a 12 Volt starter and begin the conversion process. And if you do change the battery wiring, do make sure that all the leads are where they're supposed to be. Otherwise you can...

Well, there's technically only a 200-lb. margin per tire on a 16,000-lb. SEE, but I've been assured by the owner of Interco that there's a healthy margin in that tire's load rating. I was primarily concerned with the big lateral loads they can be subjected to when scooting the rear end around...

Sounds to me like you're running a 24 Volt system, but have the batteries hooked up for 12 Volt. You're having 16 Volts on an Optima at rest which is one too many for when it's charging. If my guess is correct, wire those batteries in series before they're cooked.

I have one set of 39.5x16.50-20 Pitbull Rockers on 2-inch widened wheels, and am about to mount a set on 40x13.5-20 Super Swamper TSL II tires on stock 20x11 wheels. Like peakbagger, I have no need for more ground clearance, but wanted less contact pressure (with the 16.50s) on one SEE, and...

The Michelins that come on a SEE are 12.5R20.

Yup, that looks like the real thing. A bit pricey with the strainer attached, though.

Ah, I had no idea that's what the SEE was designed for. I thought it was for the big sandbox. Then the Michelins being the tire of choice makes even less sense to me. You may not consider yourself an offroader, but it sounds like you do more of it than the majority of decked out four wheel...

I thought the cap is not vented, and that's why there's a vent on the tank. Either way, I've seen fuel caps for sale, probably on Expedition Imports' web site. Finding a seat may be a bit trickier, especially if they are FLU specific.

Peakbagger, here I would respectfully disagree. Completely. For driving over rocks and punji sticks I would much rather be on bias ply tires, with their inherently better conforming carcasses and stronger sidewalls. Radials have their place, and while the SEE's Michelins aren't a good example...

Right you are. I use hydraulic fluid, engine oil, vaseline, or whatever is handy to lube the rods. But for cleaning them first, WD-40 actually works.

I sure wasn't when fighting that tank. And to make the issue even more irritating, after installing the 24 Volt fuel pump I'd bought to help find the air leaks in the line, it turned out to be dead. My bad, I KNEW that I should've bench tested a $14 pump before plumbing it in. So now I'm waiting...

No, that one does not, as I recall. From the looks of it, several parts and pieces were replaced (the backhoe's cylinders and hoses, for example) but then they must've stopped somewhere before the painting process. The hood's bare metal (well, rusted) , but the lack of new paint makes it easy to...

The easiest would probably be to drive it one winter where they use salt or other evil chemicals on the roads.

Almost forgot. I'm nearly done with cutting down a Pewag chain to fit a 12.5R20. Basically, removed one section of cross chain and quite a bit of the choker chain. Still need to attach the spring tensioner to the choker. True, the result doesn't exactly look like Pewag's promotional photos, but...

Thanks, Rustystud and Chief. My reason for asking is that I have a small diesel (MV, but not a CUCV) that sounds pretty terrible, and smokes quite a bit. Okay, a lot. It sounds like badly adjusted valves, but based on what I've read it could very well be the injectors making the noise. With...

It's a Bosch part, as I recall. And older NOS may well be better than recent production. Then again, maybe not.

It's not my intention to stir up a hornets nest here, but I'm curious if anyone has had even remotely similar results from using any of the many "magic elixirs" that supposedly cleans out injectors. And if so, which one.

Once I found the part number (sorry, don't remember where) it was merely a matter of finding the least expensive source. It was a Porsche parts outlet on eBay, as I recall. Or, you could order one from Expedition Imports.