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I did a fair amount of battery testing in the Nineties and came across interesting technologies as a result. Still, despite using desulphation and (mostly) the correct charging, I'm down to one surviving wet battery from that time. And it's no longer a fully functional battery. On the other...

Shh! Please don't tell the Optima in my Jeep that it's past its Best By date. It's about 22 years old.

No, my Jeep has the battery on a shallow tray, under the floor behind the seats. I learned a long time ago that it's easier to make sure that water can get out than it is to keep it out. During that first period of "drownings" I almost always ended up so deep that I had to shut the engine off...

Yikes! And here I was miffed that Optima Group 31s have gone up in price...to $245 delivered. For $4K (times however many you want) I'd think that you could buy enough Optimas and solar panels to keep things running quite well. Worldwide.

Are you saying that every time I submerged my Jeep (and its regular lead acid battery) it short circuited so I couldn't use the electric winch, or move the Jeep with the starter? Good thing I didn't know that at the time or I would've been up the creek. Well, I was in a creek, or maybe it was a...

Aw, c'mon. What's the fun in using products for their intended purpose?

Shouldn't take much to kick those dents out. You're not about to paint it show quality black, are you?

I wouldn't be that lucky. My leakage is before the pump, so air gets in but no fuel comes out.

Stock doesn't mean it's fully functional. I've been chasing air leaks in the fuel line on a stock Unimog for weeks now. Fuel doesn't leak out, but air leaks in, somewhere, and that leads to crappy performance - or even no performance at all.

You got me curious now. I hope you describe (and show some pics) of what you do with your setup.

Since changing the fuel filter made a difference, I'd start checking the fuel delivery system.

Sorry, I forgot, but finally looked up the weight of this trailer on the title. I think my guess of 9-10,000 lbs. load capacity is closer to the truth than the 11,070 lbs. that the listed weight would allow. There's no way this trailer weighs only 2,930 lbs. Yes, aluminum is light, but not that...

How about filling the system with plain water, for now, and look for leaks instead of trying to hear them?

You might be able to find that info by searching for Case 580C stuff on Google. At least I think it's a 580C.

In reality it was more like four or five years, but it wasn't exactly a daily driver and used only in the neighborhood. Got that 1008 with one alternator missing, so I disconnected the wiring for the other one. Used a solar panel to keep the batteries charged, one at a time, and since it was in...

Make sure the wiring for the alternators can't touch ground, or each other, and drive. I used my 1008 for over a year without any alternators.

Amazing indeed, considering that the stuff I used was the old style, which really should've been heated (not necessary with the current products) but I tend to stray from directions. Besides, it was a better test, I thought, of its capabilities to try under less than ideal conditions.

N-Terpinal makes a solution that removes powder coating, and if it's anything like its rust removers etc. you can almost drink it. Never tried the powder coat version, but the rust removers work great.

And here I thought that it wasn't good for diesels to idle. At least on the larger ones the rings aren't even made to seal well at idle, putting a fair amount of fuel in the oil. Maybe that's not the case with the little Cummins or OM352s. Either way, I avoid idling any engine whenever possible.

JEL, while I'm learning as I go in regards to the hydraulic system, my guess is that it's probably not an open center. If the rear pump would deadhead, things would get quite warm and ugly, I think. And when removing the backhoe it says to connect the QDs in the rear to each other, keeping a...