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First of all, are you sure you want a locker and not a limited slip? There's a big difference in handling if you drive on the street much, and especially if you ever find yourself on snow and ice. I'm a huge fan of the Detroit Locker, and have them front and rear in two of my Jeeps. But those...

As I recall, the housing, right side shaft, diff cover, and a few other things took offense when the bomb went off. No wheel speed to speak of, mud tires in mud. Guess it had an unusually short fuse. And I must admit that I never fully understood the idea behind a limited slip that doesn't do...

Definitely a step in the right direction, but 15.5 Volts is just shy of the 15.6 that is "rapid charge" for an Optima. You may want to play around with the system until you get the voltage down to 15.0. Then again, those poor Optimas may take a while to recuperate from the extreme overcharging...

Didn't exactly look forward to mounting tires on the new wheels, remembering the black eye a tire iron gave me last time, but while cleaning and painting them I noticed that they had been dismounted on a tire machine. Hmm. I could lift a wheel onto the tire machine, and roll a tire up on the...

That sounds like Bikers33's assessment may be correct. You might have lucked out here. I put it on the list to check the drain plugs on mine today.

Very good advice, I think.

It was less than half of what a new aftermarket bucket would've cost, and less than most of the beat up used ones I've seen advertised. Yeah, that was a good score. It'll mostly be used in soft dirt, for the smaller irrigation ditches, so no need to do anything special to it. Unless peakbagger...

Yesterdays trip to Denver was well worth it. Came back with a very lightly used 12-inch bucket for cheap, and four Unimog wheels also bought for a fair price. I've dismounted hundreds of tires but can't recall ever finding so much corrosion on the rims. Makes me wonder what kind of steel...

Hmm. Wouldn't a 12 Volt rated switch be better, being that it'd only have to deal with half the amperage when used for 24 Volts?

I tried to give you three "Thanks", but the system wouldn't let me. Not that I think my cut-off switch is guilty for what the charging system is doing now (spraying some JB-80 into it seems to have helped), but your described method would give access to the wiring for the diagnostic plug.

Yeah, after re-reading your post I realized that you probably meant alternator. Sorry.

Since replacing the clutch seems to be an absolute pain, I would try just about anything before going that route. Including making the actuation part inoperable, then try driving again and find out if it still slips. Faced with the situation your friend is in, my approach would be to buy...

Well, most importantly, the 20 Volt charge is not because of the dual batteries. The 20 Volts in (what appears to be) a 12 Volt system is due to it being charged with 24 Volts. As far as the wiring goes, it'll be happier with a higher voltage as it means being subjected to less amperage for a...

Spent the day driving to Denver, picking up affordable wheels and a 12-inch bucket for the FLU419. I'll try to regain some thinking capacity tomorrow. Can't believe that nobody with intimate knowledge of this stuff (of which there seems to be many on the CUCV threads) has chimed in. Between you...

That's if GovPlanet didn't beat them to it.

To avoid any future confusion, especially when ordering parts, keep in mind that this SEE was apparently rebuilt in 2005, but was made in the late Eighties or early Nineties. Do have your friend double check that it's actually an issue with the clutch assembly and not something external with the...

Glad to hear you got it worked out! Despite me.

Since the Volt meter in an M1008 isn't showing numbers, I don't know what the actual voltage is when turning the engine over while the glow plugs are on. But I do know that it shows a little bit higher than the meter (still 24 Volt) in my converted M1009 did at full charge. In both cases, the...

They likely would, but slowly. Unfortunately, your batteries are not at the 12.7 Volts they should be (if fully charged) so in that sense you have what amounts to a poorly charged 24 Volt setup, which probably would start. Maybe you actually have a 12 Volt conversion, but it's still being fed 24...

Admittedly, I don't remember if you have two alternators or not, but from the readings on your Volt meter it looks like you do. Or your one alternator is seriously over charging. Either way, my main concern would be to stop that over charge and worry about what voltage the starter is later...