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That portion of the alignment is the hard part. I took my truck to Les Schwab and they did all the toe adjustments in about 1 hour on their rack. After the shims are removed you'll want the alignment, just have them use the same specs as an H1 from the late 90's.

By turning in you mean the front are closer together than the rear, or that the bottom of the tire is closer together than the top? If front closer than rear that's an alignment adjustment (toe in), relatively simple to adjust, it should have very slight toe out. If it's the camber adjustment...

Yeah, without anything in the system it won't do anything, but as soon as you start charging it it should show the green light on the diagnostic module and start working. I don't have a scale so I just kept filling mine until it stopped cycling very quickly, and the sight glass on the...

Usually they are referred to as "R134a adapter" or "R134a quick coupler" and the "standard charging port" you are referring to is for R12, pretty much everything newer uses this type of fitting, so this would be a current standard charging port. Sometimes when technology changes was is...

Yes, those are the two ports. they are all you need to charge the system. Standard R134a hookups. You will want to go over the entire system and make sure all the fittings are snug. Not too tight, because they are o-ring seals. My truck had the MAK (Marine Armor Kit) removed from it...

Only if they are bad. They aren't all that expensive though, so it's not a bad idea.

Yes, that is the same location as mine for the high side port, low side port will be lower down under the cover, facing forward. Remove the cover then compare to the pic I posted earlier.

Can you post pictures of your evaporator from both sides and the receiver/dryer for us? There is no way that a Red Dot system does not have industry standard charging ports unless someone has modified it.

the hookups should be on the evaporator, not the dryer. Standard R134A hookups. Remove the driver's side cover plate to see them easily. Low side is at the bottom facing forward, high side is a little above and behind it facing straight out. Picture taken from my thread below...

The M1123 is just the Marine's heavy spec M998A2 (or the M1097A2 which is the Army heavy spec M998A2) without the airlift bumper, so should be the same.

I've checked over the cables, and can't find any issues with any of them. Added question, does the smart start or control box or whatever it is also give a signal to the regulator to start charging, or is the generator/regulator completely independent of the start control box?

So I have a keyed battery disconnect. Sometimes when I start the HMMWV (m1123) the generator shows like it's about to start charging, it goes slightly into the green between glow plug pulses, but then drops back to yellow and stays there. If I turn off the engine, tap on the regulator a little...

Running to the negative terminal will always be the best connection, but there is no real reason why you can't run to any of the normal ground locations on the truck, as they all go to the battery negative eventually. Straight to battery eliminates possible bad connections if you go to the body...

if you haven't changed the bulbs over to 12V or LED multi-voltage, then just wiring it up as is for 12V the lights will be extremely dim. The two LED circuit boards in the lights are the blackout lights. basically just dim lights to let others that are very close to you know when you are...

I suppose that is understandable, as it allows for any work necessary in the future to be done less expensively if the system needs the refrigerant changed out/recharged again. So how about R422b then? It's not that much more expensive than the 407c is, but doesn't require you to change out...

the bulbs use standard base types, so no reason you can't do the 12V version. I've done it and I know others have put multi-voltage bulbs in so it can run off either 12 or 24V depending on what's pulling it. I can't confirm on the brakes, but pretty sure without air they aren't locked to chock...

R-22 is still readily available, so I'm not sure why you would have to convert it.

Yup, you can go the standardly available block warmers for the GM 6.2/6.5 diesel, or just get a magnetic oil pan warmer and slap it on there. Won't be as effective as the block warmers, but having flowing oil is the most important part when cranking over in the cold. As long as the batteries...

You might look at places that do tarps for semi trucks. What you want might be a little smaller than they are used to, and I don't know if they will do the clear windows or not, but those prices you're getting seem a little steep when something like a lumber tarp 24'x27' is around $300. Just...

the 200A1 does NOT use HMMWV tires. It uses much larger tires, I believe they match (or at least sometimes match) the duals for a 5 ton or similar truck. At minimum they are semi tires in dual configuration. I've seen one MEP 804 series on an HMMWV trailer (the M1102 chassis I believe...