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I'm not either, but there aren't a lot of good options. The kit I linked is supposed to be installed where the fording valve goes, if you don't have the fording kit.

I installed a keyed disconnect for mine, the disconnect itself is right next to the transmission diagnostic port by the doghouse (not my picture, but I don't feel like putting on shoes at the moment)...

While I don't have one of those, the military rates all of it's equipment for cross country loads, not on highway. From what I've seen, you can usually double the military's capacity rating (but without double checking the axle rating from the manufacturer, do so at your own risk)

When they loaded me in the past from the Chehalis yard they had a set of chains so they could lower it into a trailer if needed, rather than using the forks underneath it. It was an 802A that I picked up (over a year ago now) but I hauled it behind my car on an aluminum 5x8 trailer rated for...

or you can do a keyed battery disconnect, they tend to use a universal key but not many people carry forklift keys with them.

Always disconnect the battery before doing ANYTHING. It might not fry it by having the battery hooked up, but then again it might. It's just much safer overall. Also a very good habit to get into anyway (or just install a battery disconnect switch on the ground anyway)

no, I don't know. You MIGHT be able to contact Red Dot and ask them. There is always the chance that you can remove the relay and find a part number of some type printed on it. Another option might be take it into a specialty electronics store and ask them if they can identify it. Red Dot...

My guess would be that either one of the switches or the wiring is having some type of issue. It's not a complicated system, if it's working correctly then: The manual I linked earlier has a troubleshooting section that, while it isn't specific for the HMMWV, it does cover the basics. Go to...

Yeah, my truck is down for a failed regulator right now.

Niehoff website has troubleshooting guides to follow and will diagnose what the bad component is. Yours is the N1225 generator with N3135 regulator. https://www.ceniehoff.com/Documents/Ctrl_Hyperlink/TG0017B_uid882013200562.pdf

This is one I've never heard before. I suppose it might be possible to damage the box, but I don't really see how if the start switch is turned off and the batteries are connect AND you didn't do something stupid like hook up a dumb charger backwards or something. The batteries should act as a...

Only if it has an equalizing function. It's much better to charge them individually rather than together otherwise, so 2 12V battery tenders would be better. Battery tenders are more for maintaining than charging, so it would take a while to bring the battery with lower state of charge up to...

So the theory goes that the first battery in the string will charge more than the second battery in the string over time. Something about the first battery possibly pulling more of the amps/current/whatever before it gets to the second battery in the string. This in and of itself isn't a big...

So the M1123 is an M998A2 with a heavy suspension and a couple other differences. It's still an M998 for most parts purposes, especially for things like tops, doors, lights, etc. To know all the actual differences you'd have to look through the parts manual, but mostly just treat it as an...

unless you have an issue with your wiring somewhere, then it's likely the compressor. I believe the red dot systems use a Sanden compressor, which takes SP-15 oil, rather than PAG-15 (not sure what the difference is, but Sanden likes their own oil better)

Here is a link to the Red Dot service manual. It's for civilian systems, but it's still just a basic aircon system, so it works. https://www.btrac.com/documents/rd-service-manual.pdf The only real difference in the civilian systems and military systems looking at the images is that the...

I run the M1-302A as well. It's ranked as one of the best filters out there from my research. (it's not actually on the list below, but it's a slightly upgraded version of the M1-302) http://www.hummerknowledgebase.com/parts/list/005.html

Personally for diesel I use BIO KLEEN for Biocide, but mostly because it's available at all the local farm supply stores. https://powerservice.com/psp_product/bio-kleen-diesel-fuel-biocide/ For storage I like to use Star Tron enzyme fuel treatment. It will even work on fuel that is turning...

just make sure the oil filter has an anti-drainback valve in it.

so last thing to do is verify if the fan is disengaging properly. With the RPMs up a bit (like 1500ish) it should be very noticable if the fan kicks in or if it was already on when unplugging the cadillac valve or time delay module (as system defaults to "engaged")