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Shouldn't have the remesh wire touching the form, it should be fully encapsulated in the concrete, 2" min away from the form, but.. this is a generator pad, not the Washington Bridge.... :ROFLMAO: ( not sure how many of you are aware of the problem with the bridge on 195 in RI ) so it will be...
I think you may have 1 pump adjusted differently than the others, causing the rack to stop short of the screw and holding the other pumps slightly open.
On the rack motion, I don't think it's possible for the rack to really hang up or move slowly ( due to a sticky pump lever etc.) IF the outside...
Once you have all 4 pumps oriented correctly test it again.
If you still have the same problem, loosen the jam nuts on the stop screw that the the shut off lever hits when the solenoid pushes it forward.
(If the screws are in the original setting they typically have red indicating compound on...
Almost... I believe Mainsail bolted the lower blocks to the pad then lagged the upper block through the frame and into the lower blocks.
This will work fine, but gives you a bunch of unnecessary added height.
I would put your bolts into the concrete with the thread up. Use bolts with washers...
That's helpful information!
Previous posts kind of sounded like the solenoid action was delayed after turning off S1 but was the solenoid reacted immediately when hitting the E-stop.
You may have the metering pumps adjusted incorrectly.
Are all 4 sitting in the block with the fuel supply hoses...
The solenoid has 3 wires. A black common and 2 colored inputs, 1 from the cranking relay and the other from the malfunction indicator.
Take a look at the schematic and you can follow the wires.
Also below is a picture of the connector wiring at the FSS.
Pin 1 at the FSS should have power when...
Because something is wrong with the 10K ;)
Seriously, both should act identically. There should not be any delay and there should be no difference between an 802 and an 803.
Something electrically is wrong with your 803 if power doesn't disconnect and the solenoid extend out immediately when...
Either way, E- stop or S1, killing power to the fuel solenoid, causing its plunger to spring forward, pushing the rack forward rotating the metering pump pins to the fuel-off position is the ONLY way to shut it off.
With it running, watch what the solenoid does when you turn S1 off. it should...
Good work getting it going again!
In the video I could briefly see the volt gage, which looked to be way above 240V ( assuming you have the machine set to 120/240).
Before you go too much further, verify the output voltage. If it can't be adjusted down with the knob, you may have blown...
If you are needing to update filters, I would strongly suggest swapping out the stock canisters and going with @Ray70's fuel upgrades for the 00X machines. Well worth it for long term owners, and better filtering and EASIER changes!
I tagged him, because I'm not sure if they are up in the...
If you can get a video together that would be great.
Thinking more about your problem, I'm wondering if you have an issue with your rocker arm adjustments?
It's starting to sound like you may be loosing compression as the motor heats up, possibly from the rocker arms being set too tight and...
When you get to tightening your fan nut, make sure its facing the right way.
It should be flat on 1 side ( outside ) and have a round "collar" looking protrusion on the other.
That round protrusion with the recessed center goes against the pump to allow the nut to put pressure on the fan blade...
slowly beginning to mis and then slowly die after a few minutes sounds like a fuel supply problem.
Do as the others have suggested by cleaning the fuel system.
In addition to cleaning the bottoms of the pumps and screens, listen to the pumps while they are powered on.
They should both click...
Not to split hairs, but I would not go with 1/2" bolts. You are better off with 5/8" or 3/4"
Mainly because these machines use a couple different length screws and 1/2" won't work in all positions, so why not get 1 size that fits all?
For instance, on the rear panel around the fuel tank, several...
It won't be a failure... EVERYTHING can be repaired, it's just a matter of working your way through the gremlins.
If you got the set cheap, being a non-runner, you can dump a ton of parts and money into it and still be ahead of the game based on what 803's sell for these days!
I usually just go on the internet and find 10-32 ( 5/8" or 3/4" long ) flange bolts and serrated flange nuts ( for places where you don't have the captive nut )
Either stainless or galvanized.
They usually come in bags of 50 or 100
Think I've used ebay before and possibly Amazon. Pretty much...
Either one is better than pump diesel! Essentially the same product but without the added road taxes.
Not sure on the price, but many carriers will also bring you off road diesel in a 55gl drum if you don't have a storage tank, but I can only assume it is substantially more expensive that way.
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