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Thanks bro. This one is kind of hard, because I don't know what I'm asking for. The only thing I am really interested in, is any cab reinforcements that occurred as a kit or pieces for when an LWS was installed. From my understanding, there may be a "Cab Reinforcement Plate", and then...
Mods, are you putting 5 ton (M939) mod threads in the new M939 folder as well? I guess this thread is not necessarily a mod thread since it is factory parts, but more of a question going forward.
Hi all, hope you and your families are staying healthy.
I can't seem to find the TM which...
Here is a pic of the 8.3L boost reference line. Very short, goes from the intake manifold to the injection pump. Allows for increased fueling as the boost pressure comes up.
You may be able to make it work if you really want it. Depends on your interest level. If you just want the light out, then the easiest way is to just remove it then.
Use the Cummins Quickserve website. Works amazingly perfect to find all of the correct Cummins part numbers, even for our military engine serial numbers. Free. You can the snag them from Amazon or obtain from any local dealer.
Sight glass works amazing! They are listed for sale in the classifieds. Can get return side, suction side, or both to better identify a tank pickup problem.
Yours ships out tomorrow, Monday.
Glad you like it. Yes, less current draw, but the largest gain is consistent cranking speed at cold and hot temps. Plus 1/2 the weight, and 1/3 smaller size. The stock starter is typically pretty good, but once you need one or if you just want the best and to keep with current technology...
Yes. But the RPM drop for the converter locking is much smaller than the RPM drop during the shift. Also, the TC does not lock as soon as it shift into second, or is later in the shift. You may also be able to just put the shifter in 2 and hold there to see if it locks, I have never tried it.
Good point on gears. Once into the upper RPM’s of second, you should feel it do half a shift. This is the torque converter locking up, as a function check of that as well.
Here is the prototype clear return line, simply threads inline into the return fitting at the tank. I’ll test fit it...
I’m making the first proto tomorrow, can ship out Monday. Will install at fuel tank return line connection to cover entire system, and work for all M939’s.
I forgot if the 8.3L MW pump is boost referenced, it should be. Make sure this pressure line is clear, connected correctly, and could check the diaphragm, spring, and internal movements associated with it.
Maybe I’ll make 100 of these and sell them. Buddy works at a hydro shop very close to my house. Yeah, I’m doing it. If you want to wait until Monday, I’ll have the first one down. Test it and you can have it for free.
Could, but I would just have a hydraulic hose place make one up to add to or replace an existing one. There is zero pressure on it, so just clear tube with the correct fittings on each end. Or short piece with fittings to add into an existing connection.
That seems good. I’d next still check for air bubbles in the return line by using a piece of clear tube along any part of it. Pain in the butt, but excellent diagnostic tool. Aerated fuel from a suction leak will do exactly as you are describing.
If little to no pressure, pinch the return line closed which exits near the front of the injection pump. If pressure increases, the lift pump is maybe OK and the overflow valve in the injection pump is then suspect, which is just a simple spring loaded check ball integrated into the banjo...
Yep. Sounds like you’ve done decent homework, thanks. You could probably even drill out the center of the transducer you are removing and tap it for pipe thread then add gauge and hose? I have never had one in my hand to see, but that is what I would try.
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