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If you skip over half way through the first video, lot of the symptoms he has is similar as far as unable to start without some either. The second video is mostly what he does to clean the system and trying to make it run and start better. Hopefully there might be a tid bit in there that may...

As far as I know, you'll need some additional parts for the tester to work on those injectors, but there are some threads on here where guys explain what parts they used and how they set it up. What's the longest interval you've let the truck run with the cleaning agents in the tank? I'll find...

Pretty sure that's part of the steering arm. Looks like you'll need longer bolts, but I have no idea if that would make your steering any different or affect the safety aspect of it.

One reason I haven't upgraded mine, I'm already a big guy, need all the room I can get, lol

When you crank over with the injectors out, it should pop like this guys. It's really odd to me that they won't pop when you crank but they do when it's running. Makes me wonder if there's that much grime in the system, it needs that high pressure to pop.

At least it looks like you have some good comfy seats in there!

Sounds like a wire or two got crossed.

nopics Pictures and names go hand in hand!😂🤣

You'll probably have to call or email Big Mikes motor pool, TNJ Murray, Erik's military surplus, Eastern Surplus, C&C surplus. Most of them can get you that part, usually parts like that are not normally listed.

I'm pretty sure all the hubs on mine are flipped, which is how the rims are all flat side out and all the rear tracks with the front. @Godspeed131, he had the truck set up that way when I bought it, so perhaps he might chime in to verify if that's correct.

All of my rims are turned facing out like your front tires with the valve stem easily accessible. Do you have your rear rims turned around? That may explain why the valve stem is blocked by the drum. I have the same, MRAP rims with adapter plates. I'm pretty sure they are all CTIS compatible. If...

Mine has the short valve stems and all of them are on the outside of the tire, same as the ctis, very easy to get too.

Maybe an engine guru can chime in here, but if air is in the system, then how is the engine firing off using either? Shouldn't it just attempt to start but keep cranking until the air is out of the system? That's always been my experience when there was a leak in the fuel system. I still think...

One idea to help mitigate mindless drivers coming up on you too quickly, if it's legal to do so, add a strobe beacon 🚨 to warn them of your presence and speed. Comes in handy too in bad weather when visibility is low. May help put your mind at ease when traveling at lower speeds on back roads...

I know this is almost a year ago,but I like the back up too, to keep it from sliding down,I put a couple hose clamps on it and those stop it from sliding down, but you'll need to loosen them if you need to slide the back down again.

Each wire should have a little metal tag on it with a number that should be easy to find, those are on every wire at connection and end points to easily be identified. The tech manuals will be your best friend and those are here on the sight in the tech manual section, free to download...

Looks like it's in good shape! You gonna name it? Seems like the MV's are kinda like boats, bad luck not giving it a name 😉

Shouldn't be any air at all once the system has been bled. Have you traced all the fuel lines for leaks while running? I've found all my leaks that way as the pressures and vibrations together seemed to expose the leak. A fuel line fitting that ever so slightly has a drip coming from it will let...