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There is a sanden brand compressor for the Red Dot kit, that uses a different mounting bracket and longer belt that is not in the parts book. The ECV/REV compressor should be the thinner one and mounts the same place as the delete pulley, so no change in belt length from what the book says

Looks like the actual military one is built by Maradyne. Found it a couple of places, the second link I just ordered 2 for myself from ($20 each, and $35 shipping for the pair) https://www.easternsurplus.net/PartDetails/32/Maradyne-24-Volt-Dash-Fan https://boyersurplus.com/products/cab-fan

I've used my milwaukee 18V work fan a few times, but mostly now use the Red Dot aircon aimed forward at the windshield to keep them clear. Federal Military Parts has some 24V fans in various colors for the HMMWV, or if you don't mind chrome that one is half the price Green...

If you're getting air into the system, everything in the system is pressurized except for the pump reservoir/seals. Even the return to the reservoir is going to have positive flow. Something would have to be seriously wrong with the system in order to get air into it anywhere else, to the...

Not sure if it matters, but you should also include what model truck and what generator you have in order for us to know better what might be going on. Have you checked to make sure the truck really is in neutral or park before trying to start it?

Kinetic ropes are only supposed to be hit at about 5mph. You're really just giving a gently tug to build up some energy and stretch the rope. If you really gunned it with that much power, with that rope, you're lucky it didn't snap on you. The soft sand probably kept you from getting a whole...

If you're a competent driver then yes, blowouts aren't as big of a deal. HMMWVs without armor it really shouldn't be an issue as long as you can hold onto the steering wheel and don't panic brake. If you drive a Ford Explorer, then apparently it's a death sentence (remember the old Ford tire...

This isn't so much for you, but for anyone else that comes on here and wants to argue about how fast it's okay to drive a 3 speed truck. book top speed is 55. the 6.2 and 6.5 GM engine have heat soak issues, so running for extended periods of time above 55mph can lead to engine failures...

high pressure = less sidewall flex and less sidewall heat. If you want to run older tires keeping them at higher pressure will help reduce stress on them. If you want to run lower pressures for off road driving and a softer ride, then stick with newer.

Do you like being able to drive 55 mph? If so, then DON'T switch out to a slower gear ratio. The 2.56 is the fastest speed gear set made for these trucks. The other two gearsets are for 4 speed trucks that are also heavier. The only advantage would be is if this is a dedicated off road rig...

it all depends on how they were stored. I've used 20 year old Wrangler MT tires and had no issues; just kept them at 35psi. I used some 10 year old 90%+ tread MT/R and they had sidewall cracking within 6 months. Only reason I bought new to me tires at the beginning of this year was the 12...

Some sort of limiting strap should work, but remember they aren't typically designed for shock loading, which is what will happen during rough driving. The shock slows down how fast the spring can extend, and mitigated the shock factor (no pun intended) of the suspension travel coming to a...

The shock is what keeps the suspension from extending too far. If it does extend too far, there is potential for the spring to shift in it's seat and potentially come out. Our springs don't really have much extension to begin with. For most jeeps, you're talking limiting straps or just...

Don't trust the 2009 build date; always go by serial number for everything. Typically when they go through IROAN or other resets they get a new tag with just the rebuild date, and not the original build date. As for the price, $10k for a titled runner is a pretty good deal. A couple years ago...

Only thing in a HMMWV that is 12V is the transmission control module in the 4 speed trucks. EVERYTHING else is 24V

pull harder. Or sometimes they are held on with a little loctite, and have to be heated up to remove. But mostly just pull harder. I think for my short extensions that are just a press fit and no set screws I used 2 rolling head prybars on opposite sides to get them to come off.

to me definitely sounds like regulator. Really in the troubleshooting guide, if it's passed all the tests for the alternator portion, and you're to the "swap on a new regulator to test" it's almost guaranteed to be a bad regulator. The tests are more to tell you if the alternator is good or...

This to me sounds like there is some sort of wiring issue, as there is no way that just the forward battery should go dead if the starter is an issue. Either something is wired incorrectly, or maybe you have a failed 12V relay or diode or something else related to the TCM that is allowing power...

I'd probably stay away from grease or similar oils for lubricating the linkage. It has hard plastic bushings in it that are more than smooth enough under normal conditions. Grease will act like a magnet and attract every bit of dust and grit to it, causing accelerated wear. If you use any type...

I have the exact same horns (your amazon link told me I purchased them 3 years ago) I ended up bolting mine, one on either side, to the top grill. Mine are also wired in parallel to the stock horn, with a packard Y fitting. It doesn't look as clean as your install, but I don't have to crawl...