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If you google the NSN, and/or GM part number, you should be able to detailed specs. I've used both to get detailed specs on bolts, nuts, etc.

The ENTIRE electrical system diagram fits on a single sheet. It's not that hard to test some switches, or trace some wires...

My very, VERY first time in a deuce... I may or may not have missed reverse, and ended up in 2nd, and hit the 5 ton in front of me instead of backing up... LOL

Welding is basically shorting out the batteries. You don't wanna do that.. They can and do explode. The only time I'd ever consider welding with batteries is if they were a great distance away, not near or in my truck, completely disconnected from the truck, NOT needed to start the truck, and...

Here's what I used. 1500A rated https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NW4V66I/ You can use it to isolate 2 banks of batteries.

Hagerty told me they only required the vehicle to be in a secure location, such as a locked/fenced area, preferably covered but not necessary. I'm thinking state law may be coming in to play.

and as I said, most of these people are looking at taking their home, on the road.. Not making a vehicle, into a home. They're STUCK on 'we need 110v'... since EVERYTHING runs off 110v in modern RVs.... because they assume they're gonna be at a park with power or something. Very different setup...

Whole house systems fall under the multi-battery and multi-KW setup I mentioned before. A mobile setup for 12V is a COMPLETELY different animal than a 24 or 48V setup for home, where 99% of your electricity use is through an inverter and 110V. A lot of these setups are relying on 110V...

When putting up panels, you can run 96V of panels in series if you have a charge controller that can handle it. The advantage is, smaller gauge wires. No real advantage going from 12V to 24V or 48V unless you're dealing with MASSIVE battery systems in multi-KW range with high draw, then the...

No doubt 24V was to be able to charge from the vehicle's alternator, or to jump the vehicle using the house batteries as a spare set, essentially. A good solar system makes that not needed, HOWEVER.........you have options Option 1 is to put a small solar panel dedicated for the starter...

You're adding more points of failure. More switches = more to go wrong. Also, you need isolate shore power and gen so you're not backfeeding the shore plug...unless you intend to do that... A simple 4 position (Inverter, generator, shore power, off) would make the most sense, IMO. Those...

There are a couple things that matter but don't matter at the same time. The best oils available in the 60's are utter #%(& compared to even the crappiest oils today. Modern enhancements in lubricity, additive packages, detergents, surfactants, etc. mean you're already giving it something...

Or, if you are running an inverter, and want REALLY simple... https://www.amazon.com/Baomain-Positions-Terminals-Changeover-Control/dp/B01G9VBZ7U/

Hopefully this clears things up.

Your 120V generator and 120V shore power should be the same circuits. You'll have a switch that cuts from shore power to genset when either the gen or shore power is connected. Don't make things too complicated... Your 120V side should have a battery charger that charges the 12V side when...

Uploaded.

No A/C either? Ehh... well... Follow https://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/files/nn10.pdf as a start.. You'll obviously have to remove one of the alternators or at the very least remove the belt... The M1010 uses 2 -24V alternators, and not 2 -12V alternators like the other CUCVs, but you already...

Do you want to redo the entire system, or just the front battery? Quite a few things require that 24V on an M1010. Have you seen the Plan B thread?

Nothing wrong with the 4R75W.... ;) Panther platform for the win.