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I've used TC-W3 and swear by it. I've seen first hand what it's done to quiet engines, to run smoother, etc on both the NHC250 and 6.2L Detroit. Optilube is supposed to be highest rated, and I believe that it's better than TC-W3, as the data supports it. However, due to cost and availability...

Urea

Sounds like a plan. When it's not 110* outside, I'll get on that ;)

I was thinking the same thing. From what I've seen, they're sealed, non-serviceable units... But, there has to be some way to fix it... other than buying another one.

Dumb is an understatement. The pintle hook and bumper attachments aren't rated for the weight, you have no brakes, and the rear axle isn't designed for that kind of stress either. I'm the last person to think .gov should be involved in things, but this is definitely one of those situations...

I'm having some issues with air assist, and I'd like a second opinion. I can turn the wheel right, and I'll have full assist. If I turn the wheel LEFT, I not only have no assist, I feel like I'm having to fight the steering wheel to go back to center, like it wants to stay right. Thoughts?

Please check the dates on the threads you're replying to.

You realize you've posted in a thread that was last active in 2009, right? ;)

You need a new subagent. They don't know what they're talking about. It doesn't have to be registered as commercial. Another member had to deal with the same crap with his deuce a number of years ago. If it's registered commercial, you're screwed, because they'll start sending you notices...

Not exactly true. Each state has its own laws. Some require more advanced licenses based on weight, length, trailer size, air brakes, etc. While they may not require a CDL, you may still be required to get a Class A or B NON-CDL, instead of the normal Class C. It's basically the same CDL...

It's not a competition, we always win. :mrgreen: And, apparently you're missing the emojis.. It's an indication that it's meant to be a joke, lighthearted, you know, just playing around. Don't take things so seriously. You do you.

You could sit and drink a beer with a couple down there.... :p

Might make more sense for the north enders, BUT..... There's an annual campout down south... https://fb.me/e/5d3XSlvUr We usually have people from Canada, Oregon, Idaho, and even California..... We have more fun.... :p

Each one of these takes a couple hours to put together, so I can't do them all at once, but my next one will be on battery systems, which will cover charge rates, losses, load distribution, etc and will hopefully create a better picture on how solar integrates into the electrical system.

Yup. That's why I put a disclaimer in my post saying that I am making my description as simple as possible, so people with zero experience or electrical knowledge can understand it :) I've found that giving too much info just leaves people not caring. It's easier to give a brief synopsis that...

- Errata/Misc - ---------------- There are some flexible, thin panels, instead of the more rigid framed panels. The downside with the flexible thin panels is they tend to be less durable, and more prone to heat stress/cracking. I do not suggest them unless they're a temporary solution...

Charge Controllers So, above we talked about how to wire panels, and parallel vs series, and how that impacts voltage and amperage... Now comes the part where that juice gets converted into something you can use... This is where the charge controller comes into play. There are some...

Wiring So, awesome, I got these panels.. .... What the #%(&# DO I DO WITH THEM?! I'll go into more detail on the charge controllers in a bit, but first, let's talk about panel layout. Panels are just like batteries in terms of being able to be put in parallel, or series, configuration, just...

Intro I'm going to cover some fundamentals of solar power including types of panels, safety equipment, and best practices when implementing a solar system. Electrical is an entirely different subject that I'll go into at a later date, and will discuss integration into an existing system, but...

Headlight switches go bad. I assume you have the 3 lever switch and not the push button? Have you tested power OUT of the switch? If you have power IN to the switch, but no power OUT, you found your problem.