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@donquijote thank you so much for the panjiva link and this information. I do acknowledge that plenty of US made products are junk. I've been bitten. I just prefer to give the first chance to the homeland. When they fail me, I look elsewhere.
The tool is certainly Chinese. Doorman boots I'm actually still researching. There are numerous companies that make extruded rubber and neoprene products within the U.S. In any case, I'm using a boot from AMGen which I'm highly confident is US made. The NAPA boot is from Empi US. I'm looking...
I can't help how the vehicle was equipped when I bought it. I can change how it is equipped going forward.
When there are options to purchase US made parts, I will avail myself of them. If there is *no* other option but to purchase a foreign made replacement part or let the vehicle sit...
Read my lips: I'm not putting $110 Autozone CHICOM axles on this truck. Ever. I've seen enough photos of failures from reputable HMMWV mechanics and it's simply an insult to our military and our national manufacturing base. What other people do with their trucks is their business.
For ME, this...
@Inspector 1 Wow, your boot actually split. The NAPA boot that @cwc recommends is very similar in quality to the AMGen boot that I purchased, that is to say- thick material. I checked again. The Dorman spreader can *almost* open the NAPA boot wide enough to slip over the CV joint. The AMGen...
I was curious to know if they were still in business. Their website is very static and their Youtube videos showing their inventory are very old so I wasn't sure if they went under. Good to know.
Grrrr....
There are 2 thermostatic switches called out in the parts manual-
One is screwed into the piping near the front of the engine and the other is screwed into the side of the passenger's side cylinder head. It seems to me that they both operate on the temperature of the coolant...
Wife's truck has had the very, very occasional "episode" where the fan doesn't engage. It seems to happen if the truck sits for a few weeks without being driven. If I unplug the TDM, the fan engages so that rules out the control (cadillac?) valve.
Over the last few days, the problem is...
LOL...the joke's on me.
I tried to use the Doorman boot tool with NAPA and AMGen boots. The boots did not tear, the tool lacked the strength to tear them or open them to the necessary diameter to slip them over the CV joint, even when my air compressor regulator was cranked up to the max safe...
Yeah, it could be a fool's errand. We'll see. AMGen and Kascar (IIRC) were out of stock on the inner boot so I have one AMGen outer boot and one NAPA/EmpiUS inner boot. The style is the same but they do feel different.
The nice thing about the tool is that it's controllable. I'll pump it open...
Ah! I didn't know that removing some DWF components was part of the demil process. All of my DFW components are in place except for that sensor cup and the tall intake stack and exhaust stack. I couldn't for the life of me figure out why these parts were removed. Now I know.
Do the boots last longer because they have more pleats and flexibility? Or perhaps made from a better material? I can believe that.
I'm not sure I agree that they're easier to replace. There's nothing I found in the TM procedure that would indicate that.
In any case, the Doorman tool could...
Because apparently I have too much money on my hands, I've purchased the Doorman CV boot spreader tool. It arrives today and I'll let you all know how it works out.
The tool has been out long enough that it sells on Amazon for $80 less than previous offerings with free shipping. If you want...
Holy crap. My wife's cousin farms hogs. One day, the boar abruptly copped a major attitude with her and probably would have killed her had she not ventilated his skull with a .357 she carries. My point being that I'm glad you made it out OK.
@timgc78 ensure that you use a GL-1 lubricant that is safe for "yellow metal." Our older transmissions use these in the synchronizers. Modern GL-4 lubricants can damage these. So, you want an 80/90 that is GL-1 (mineral oil based)
I *think* the GL-4 lubricants are safe in the transfer case and...