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https://www.steelsoldiers.com/attachments/tm-5-6115-585-12-pdf.631487/ I would read pages 134 - 141 in this TM. It has a lot of good information about the starter. BUT...if you are getting high current sparks when connecting your batteries EVEN WITH all of the wires and the cables removed from...

Yes, much better.

Are all of the cables and wires remover from the starter and the starter solenoid? If so, then your problem is somewhere else. I would double check the way that your batteries are being connected. In 24VDC you should have two 12V batteries connected in series.

Or, more correctly I can see the wire numbers, but not the description next to them for what they are.

The picture is too small. I can't see the numbers on the diagram.

Another way that you can find out what wire or what cable is connected incorrectly is to remove all of them. Connect your batteries as normal and then, one by one connect each wire or cable to your starter the way that you believe they should go. When you connect one incorrectly you will see...

What is the number on it? What does the schematic say?

It would also help if we knew what model generator you are working with. I don't see that information anywhere in this thread.

Something must be connected wrong at the starter, the starter solenoid, the ground cables etc. You will need to familiarize yourself with the electrical schematics and check that each of the wires/cables in the starter area are connected properly. It's virtually impossible for anybody here to...

Perfect, glad that they had what you need. I don't have a picture of the "normal" reman tag that we usually see on the side of the block. But it usually has all of the information that Ray mentioned above. I wouldn't be too concerned about it. As long as you're getting the correct size of parts...

Some of us just like to live vicariously through others! :love:

Well that tag doesn't tell you much of anything does it? Did you by any chance find out if Sleeman & Hawken has the 1mm oversized pistons?

It's nice when you can find an older thread that's related to a specific problem that you're having. I had some advice from another member here about locating such threads. They told me to type my unit model number and my problem into the google search bar rather than using the search on this...

I should have added…we should go through the process of checking the wiring and the integrity of the gauge before condemning the gauge. They work on resistance. With the S1 in the run position and the wire disconnected from the sending unit on the engine, the gauge should read pegged on high...

The coolant temp gauges are very prone to failure on these. One of the members here sells them, I forgot who! Check out “Gijoeczar.” I think he’s got them. The 802A’s are inherently bad for vibration too. Probably why the gauges regularly fail!

I guess it's what you're used to that gives the best results. I'm kind of old school when it comes to testing batteries. I've always used a carbon pile load tester with an inductive amperage clamp. The rule of thumb is to load the battery to 1/2 of the cold cranking amps (CCA) for 15 seconds...

I seem to remember that they go up to 1.0mm oversize. (.040") But I would ask them.

That would be a question for Sleeman & Hawken. Have you had any correspondence with them yet?

Pictures are always good, thanks. The lower numbers are the build date from what I understand. The /0.750 at the end of the upper number is the oversize. If you look at the manual, the oversize's are in mm. So, .25mm is just under .010" oversize, .50mm is .020" oversize and .75mm (not listed on...

I’m trying to decipher what your numbers are. They don’t quite match what’s in the manual.