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Great score!

The above would be true if you also ohm checked the wire from the gauge and the sender. It should be very close to no resistance.

What shut-down fault are you seeing? Disconnect the oil pressure gauge sending unit and turn your S1 to “run”. The gauge should read on the high end. Then, ground the wire to the sending unit. The gauge should go all the way down to low. If the gauge stays pegged on high, it’s bad.

Plastic is overtaking us!

Maybe I've been extremely lucky. After having close to 30 different units go through my hands now, I haven't seen one bad radiator yet. Replaced a couple of water pumps, but that's it in the cooling systems. Great idea though to find a place to build them up. Radiator shops are like machine...

Interesting! I thought that the 804A and B models both had mechanical primary lift pumps, and electric auxiliary pumps only? I can hear what sounds like an electric primary lift pump in your video though?

Some of us have received great parts support from “Sleeman & Hawken” in the UK. They responded very well to my parts needs. I was blown away with the 3 day shipping time. Email seems to work well with them.

I’ve seen this on a couple of units that I had. One was so bad I had to replace (3) pistons. The rings had seized and the piston skirts were rubbing off on the cylinder walls. I don’t think oil changes or lack there of has anything to do with the discoloration.

That looks correct. It’s a steel plunger rather than a steel ball. I’m not sure about the spring though. Ray will comment on that tomorrow. So, are you still dealing with low compression issues?

“No matter how hard we try, the best that we can do is to be human “

If you have the correct fuse in that quad fuse location, the next step would be to ohm out the exciter stator F1 & F2 terminals as Ray mentioned above. You will want to familiarize yourself with the TM's to get the correct direction in your trouble-shooting. Good luck!

https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/mep-802-and-803-main-generator-tip.148791/ You may have already gone through this thread. If not, I would suggest reading it. Also it appears that much of the US is currently dealing with winter weather so the response time from many of the other members...

Can you please take a photo of the fuse that you’re dealing with? Is it the one in this photo?

When you have each half of that 16 pin connector reassembled, it would be a good idea to ohm check your work prior to applying power. Use the diagrams that Klopp provided above and check that each of the pins (1 - 15) go to their assigned location.

Chilbun, as you've already gathered, the general consensus here is to not by-pass the P7/J7 connector or jump around any of the perspective pins in that connector. But we're not there with you looking at your particular unit. If that 16-pin cannon plug is damaged beyond repair as you say it is...

Patience and tolerance are both good virtues as they say. What makes this a great forum IMO is the level of both which exist here. I know that I've had my share of learning experiences with these power making machines. And the members here have walked me through all of those scenarios with...

Thanks for that clarification Guy!

This is really a great forum. People here are so willing to offer their experience. You will also find a lot of great information relating to your specific units in the TM section too. Welcome aboard!

There maybe someone on this forum who could use this device if you don’t have a need for it. You can post an ad in the classified section either in items for sale or the pay it forward section if you simply want to give it away.

From what I’ve gathered, the MEP-802A units and the MEP-803A units cannot be paralleled for combined total power due to the nature of the mechanical governors. They cannot be synchronized. This box is simply to be able to switch from one generator to the other for a seamless, uninterrupted power...