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Just went through this myself and solved the problem thanks to the help of @GeneralDisorder and @fuzzytoaster for the hardware and software needed to troubleshoot. Mine turned out to be the cheapest component in the heui system thank God, injection actuation pressure sensor.

CHECK ENGINE LIGHT IS OUT!! Replaced the injection actuation pressure sensor and that solved all my problems, finally!

Could you use something like this Maxi fuse extender to get the fuse to a more accessible location?

I don’t have the 4 batts anymore, downsized to 2 and the thought is to move them along with the air tanks closer to the cab to allow for the extra fuel tank on driver side and more storage along the frame rails. Your setup seems interesting though, I will have to check that out for sure. Are you...

All good discussion and to @chucky ‘s point, my goal is to balance the weight of the added fuel and also maximize the storage space below the habitat outside of the frame rails if possible.

@Mullaney And that was kinda my line of thinking as well with the air tanks, you always see them mounted in roughly the same location so I figured there had to be a reason for this. Also not quite sure on the operation of the second tank though but could run a second gage and just install a...

I’m in the process of stripping everything from the back of my M1088 and at first I was planning on leaving the intake and spare tire in the OEM config but the more I look at it, there’s a lot of wasted space and unnecessary weight there. Furthermore, I would like to carry more fuel but want to...

Is there any harm in running the truck with the CTIS controller unplugged? I noticed there’s a CTIS OFF light on the cluster but it’s not illuminated, assumed that would illuminate if the controller is removed so just wanted to make sure the tires aren’t going to endlessly try and inflate or...

@Ronmar I found it, it is the ether sensor mounted on the housing on the A1 trucks. Found it by searching the wire tag in the TM, I appreciate the tip on that!

There are two sensors on the aft side of the housing: inboard sensor - P41 outboard sensor (Nason) - P37 broken sensor I mentioned previously - P42

so @Ronmar it looks like the “thermal resistors” listed on MME website. could it be a temp sensor for ether system mounted on the thermostat housing? edit: I will have to check the crossover tube to see if there is a sensor mounted in that location.

Yes I did notice the Nason and another sensor on the aft side of the housing. Doing some digging tonight to ID it and find a replacement.

Whatever this is, don’t think it’s a temp sensor…a switch maybe? I’ve still gotta look it up in the TMs. This port is plugged on every other 3126 manual I’ve seen so far.

Ok awesome thanks for the clarification, still working over everything. I have an intermittent high voltage fault for the IAP sensor so a replacement on the way, hoping that fixes the issue. Was unable to find any broken or chaffed wires between the sensor and ECM. I did find the wires going...

On top of the stock alternator of the A0.5 trucks (as I think @Ronmar likes to call them, am I missing a lead on the left terminal or is this only needed for a dual output gauge in the cab?

Yeah I’ve wrestled with this idea and have decided that I will be mounting a winch in that location like others have done. I may play around with the idea of just relocating the glad hands as well, not quite sure yet.

Another small victory… I can confirm that if your check valve off the front glad hand is full of crud and gets stuck open, the parking brakes will not release. Thanks to @Ronmar video I was able to get a better understanding of how all that works and because I will be deleting the front glad...

Made some good progress today, got the “new” oil pump installed and pan back on. Filled it up with oil and now just need to get the trans cooler reinstalled and new coolant added then can fire it up and start working on this oil actuation fault code again. Also was able to get all the 5th wheel...

Dang yeah good point on that too. I saw a ton of chinese pumps for these engines on ebay and wanted no part of that.

So the losing streak continues with these ebay pumps. Here you can see the bushing for the idler gear is completely toast. What I ended up doing just swapping the almost new idler gear and shaft from my broken pump to the ebay pump housing. It’s going back in today. Moral of the story is, stay...