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The manual says what? Screw it in until it stops, then 2 turns out? It worked first time at that setting?

M1079's aren't hard to find. Yes, they were made in far fewer quantities than the M1078's, but there are plenty of them around for sale. There's a new one posted every few days on eBay, or the Facebook group... many by people who bought them with the dream of building an overland camper then...

Unless you're planning to keep the crane, buying an M1084 to turn into a camper seems like a waste, and a shame to ruin a good M1084. As for if $15k is a good price? That answer would be very specific to 1000 variables about the truck and you. Keep in perspective though that you're buying a...

No kidding? I remember looking in there for a while, back when that thread was around, and coming up empty. I'll have to check again. Good find!

How did you know the resistance should be 1400 ohms? There was a thread here several years ago where people were discussing how to check if it was good/bad, but nobody had any concrete ideas/evidence.

The part number is in my parts spreadsheet (in my signature), and I think in the stickied one too.

I've had a few times offroad in snowy/icy conditions in my A0 where ANY amount of braking resulted in locking the wheels. In one instance, I was traveling at idle speed, on an icy trail with a slight side slope (a couple degrees, similar to an on-ramp embankment). When I hit the brakes even...

Yeah, that's most of it. And yes, 4x4 vs 6x6 has some pro's and con's arguments in various specific situations. Aftermarket lockers are available. I would add to that list that the way bigger tires mean that you can go through and over a lot of stuff that smaller-tired vehicles can't.

If you installed them yourself, there probably aren't more than $5000 in air lines, and maybe $5000 more if you replaced all the check valves, and other valves/fittings/brake cans/etc. You could get a long way with like $10k of rebuilding/replacing stuff. It doesn't seem like most people even...

More complexity, more points of failure, so it's more important to keep it maintained. The major contributor is plastic/rubber parts, followed by computers/sensors, since it's not like anything happens to a 30 year old steel axle shaft to make it prone to failure. So two trucks side by side...

This would be true of any 20+ year old truck that hasn't had much replaced (e.g. hoses, seals, belts, etc.). If you bought a '90s Chevy pickup with 30k miles on it you wouldn't expect to drive it around the country without it needing repairs. If you break a 20+ year old transmission cooling...

There are a handful of things going on here. The FMTV is the most reliable truck the military has ever had, and by a huge margin. The FMTV is a more complicated truck than older predecessors. It has some sensors, electronics, and contraptions older trucks didn't have. These designs are...

Cost, Quality, or Time... you can only pick two. That leaves only 3 courses of action... You can hurry out onto the road, and not pay to have the truck looked at. Fast, cheap, but low quality. You can hurry out onto the road, and pay (a lot) to have the truck professionally rebuilt/repaired...

3D printers are very useful tools. I'm a mechanical engineer, and between work and my own engineering consulting / prototyping side business, I'm constantly making functional parts on them. One of the most significant reasons "regular people" don't have as much use for them is that you have to...

I use a special 3D printer to make the master patterns for the molds. The one I have now is smaller, and would require a bunch of hassle to separate that cab bushing shape into multiple pieces, then reassemble them. I'm waiting for a larger model to be released, which was originally supposed...

You do have to take some of the bumper (and its brackets off), at a minimum, to get the cab mount with roller fairlead out. Ideally you'd take the whole bumper off, but it is possible without. The "biscuits" are the upper and lower cab mounts. You can find them on eBay and stuff. I don't...

We just put a jack under the floor, in front of the passenger tire, with a 4x4 cut to length to reach from the jack to the floor (and another hunk of board to spread the load). You don't really have to "lift" it, just support it and maybe move it an inch.

In an A0 they are not metric.

The injectors on the 3116 engines in A0 trucks are mechanical. They have a complex rack system to actuate the injectors, that needs to be carefully set up and calibrated. There is a tool set that facilitates that calibration procedure, or at least makes it easier, and it's expensive.

The part numbers for the "issued" snatch block are in the back of the TM.