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I don’t have a picture right now but the new one is exactly the same except the bottom exhaust port is not threaded. The tee where the two bottom hoses connect will not be able to be attached to the new one.

The new Q2 valve is not threaded on the bottom down facing port like my old one. Is there a different way to connect this or did I just get the wrong part?

I have no warning lights for low air, parking brake or transfer case. My spring brake light and bright indicator work fine but my low air buzzer is also very faint. I filed down the grounds but still nothing and the main problem I am having is the numbers on the wiring are corroded and...

I’ve traced the leak back to the QR valve in the front of the truck. Is there a way to clean/rebuild that or is it best to just replace it?

Are there any gauges that work better than others for these tests. I’d prefer to buy the correct one the first time verses wasting money on the wrong tools for the job?

I just bought a 1984 M923 that runs and drives great but I have an substantial air leak when the brakes are pressed. The air is escaping into the intake. I have read the TMs and hope to start pressure testing it in order this weekend. My question is what kind of pressure gauge would work...

On the G pump hydraulic head if you can’t find the kit to seal the oil port just do a light weld over it and very carefully with a dremel tool grind it smooth. Problem solved.

Sounds like your doing a good job with it and doing what needs to be done as far as maintenance but your wife doesn’t trust your work. Might might be a good time to sell her for parts. Keep the truck though it’ll last you a lifetime.

The hydraulic head will be different on the the 427 pump if it is the type G so make sure you keep that.

Just my two cents, but my Dodge was blowing white smoke bad about 2 years ago and an old diesel mechanic told me to pour in a gallon of cheap ATF. I haven’t had a problem since and the Cummins runs like a champ. Now I run a quart every 3rd or 4th tank.

If your using either to start it it’ll run for a bit on that but then shut off. My vote is it’s the button also.

I am looking for a quote to move a deuce from Cloudcroft NM to Las Cruces NM. It isn’t currently running and moving it is not real urgent. I’ll probably need it moved sometime before February.

Besides the stress it puts on the axle is there any real good reason to flip the hubs. I want my truck to float on top of sand and not dig in. Personally I think they look good with the wider singles in the back.

I’m not on Facebook and I can’t get pictures to load on here, but if your interested PM me and I’ll send some pictures or video to you. I’d really like it to go to someone who’ll fix it up.

I just put the truck for sale on Craigslist. I just don’t have the funds or the help to get it fixed right now. Hopefully someday in the future I will get another one to work on. I have really enjoyed getting it running again, but just can’t afford to do the things I want to it.

Got it. I did overfill the MC a bit, but I will probably just rebuild the air pack for good measure. I’ll add that to the ever growing list of things this truck needs. Some days I gotta keep reminding myself that I do this for fun and it’s a hobby. For Christmas I want more tools and more...

Is there another route for the brake fluid to get there? I have the vent tube from the top of the master cylinder running up in front of my firewall in anticipation of putting a remote reservoir.

My truck is leaking something that has the consistency of brake fluid out of the blow by tube. Any ideas on what this might be. Before inspecting I thought I had blown a break line.

That should work. I might even be able to salvage some pieces from the old harness to make a signal harness. Thanks for the advice.

I’ll probably have to make a separate harness for just the turn signals. Any idea how or where to splice in the power for it?