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Is there any members in the central tx area have a 10 ton and below tow bar i could take a look at and pull measurements from?

Iv seen several youtube vids on that lizard skin and saw the db meter measurements, but of course that stuff could have been manipulated. Its good to hear about it from an outside user source.

Check from turbo, back at every connection point.

Iv been wanting to get a tow bar for my 5tn, but damn, just like everything for the military, takes more than 1 person to handle/use safely.

I ran in to that in an old dodge company tck. Diesel exhaust smell in the cab, esp with the fan blower on. Tck shop could find a noticeable soot trail in the eng bay or under cab. My 936A2 had an exhaust smell till i replaced the rusted out muffler.

EDIT: Not sure. You would have to give them the part number from the tech part manual or contact a cummins repair shop/dealer for their stocked p/n and see if napa carries it, or if the cummins shop/dealer has it in stock. I got the pump, stat and gaskets from dieselpartsdirect.com and i think...

i was having an issue similar and i drained my system, put in probably way more vinegar than need be, but along with some CLR in the radiator, changed out the water pump (what a damn headache that was) and replaced my stat. other erroneous reading from the temp gauge, things seem to be good now

@Mullaney tools and components of these egg beaters are heavy, im getting older and the young guys have little motivation to work, let alone pick up heavy things. 1 blade is 375ish lbs, and i can still pick it up by myself for certain quick tasks. Im finding it that these young and suppose to be...

The rust was only about 6” long and bout 4” o/b of the splines. The remaining length of the shafts were very well oiled/sticky from the 80/90. Even the small rusted spots were oily, but still heavily rusted with lite pitting.

I can only afford the 6 wks for temp recovery, then i gotta head to south america to relieve my off sider so he can go hm to his family for the holidays. My right ankle rebuild, i should have had 6 months off, but bills have to get paid, so i brushed the sand off my b@!!s and went back to work...

Surgery went well, the VA didnt kill me during surgery, but im betting waking up, they probably wished they did. Im a 👹 when coming to. It was just a day procedure to repair the ligaments in my left ankle, planar facia tendon and grind off the heel spur. Ill give it 10-12 days before i attempt...

I was kinda being a smarta$$ when i posted that. Just like in order to rmv the tire, rmvl of the ctis would be obvious. But on a serious not since you brought it up. I found a 1 1/8” crowsfoot to rmv the ctis valve, then slide the b-nut off the stem and use a 1 1/8” deep socket to rmv the stem...

Step 1. chock wheels not to be removed 2. Place jack under axle and lift axle and place jack stand/s 3. Remove lug nut, remove tire 4. Release brakes and slide drum off hub.

Are you getting power to/from horn button, to horn air solenoid? Are you getting air to the inlet side of the solenoid?

Iv got plenty to still fix on mine. I def need to get the brake dragging fixed, then get the shutter stat replaced with the solenoid i bought some time back. I have several rust holes on the hood id either grind out and weld in a new patch or strip and repaint the hood off the parts truck. Plus...

@Mullaney i didnt swap cylinders, and the cyl that did get swapped before i got it, was on the tank side. Going with the 100 gal with a completely empty system, then i did over svc the tank. After putting everything back together properly, including the boom cyl pin and retaining bolt, i was...

So, after disconnecting the cyl from the boom, some new curse words and after a modified bush and new swivel 90 instal, i have the 2 new hoses installed. I over shot the cyl pin hole and now gotta try find a way to get the cyl rod pushed down enough to get the pin in it. I do have a question on...

I will take a look and see how long it holds pressure.

I see what you are saying. In this case, stay NPT at the hose, change out the reducer bushing to a NPT to JIC, and get a NPT 90 with a -10 swivel jic. doing it that way should keep the length the same. I was just figuring since there was a jic at the cyl, might as well change the 90 and reducer...