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Air keeps the clutch disengaged. Temp switch closes the solenoid under the dash which shuts off the air supply and dumps pressure in the line through the solenoid exhaust. .
The slight flare on the tube is only to keep the nut from slipping off, not a sealing surface. Some tubes actually don't have any flare at all on the end and seal just fine. The seal is accomplished when you tighten up the nut onto the wheel valve nipple (male threads) and the rubber seal inside...
So if it leaks at the compression nut, is it stripped and loose or does it tighten down? They strip VERY easily especially with an 1 1/8" wrench. If it isn't stripped, either the rubber seal inside is missing or worn out. I made new ones from 5/8" id heater hose.
You need to post a picture of what you're talking about. Are you referring to the tube that comes out of the axle hub that the wheel valve slides over?
Maybe your deflate solenoid in the PCU got stuck in the open position. But it doesn't explain while only the QRV for the front axle stayed open after shutting the truck off. Are you sure that the rear tires didn't deflate as well? They will look more inflated because of less weight on the rear...
I highly doubt that the dump valve is the problem; they don't usually go bad. Tons of questions to ask first but did the rears go down any while the front two were deflating? Did you hit runflat at startup?
I think I figured out why so many were having problems with the unit not working after a rebuild. It took me 3 times of removing and installing to find the problem. And it was a very simple one at that.
When I rebuilt the unit, I turned it upside down in my vice to hold it while I...
A few items that Coffey1 and I have to bring to the rally if spoken for. Call, text or PM me if you want pictures.
Large snatchblock, probably 10 ton - $75
Locking fuel caps, new, with keys. I have used these on 5 tons and LMTV's. 2 available - $50 each Available in tan or green depending on...
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