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First shakedown run to get inspections and titles

Traditional all the way.

Thanks for the replies guys. I just got back from the storage lot and pulled codes D1 21-12 D2 21-23 D3 23-12 D4- D5- disconnected the battery and inspected the cab harness cannon plug. Condition was excellent but not fully clicked into the lock detent aligning the two red dots. Next checked...

I have a 1998 M1078 It had a no crank condition that I traced down to the pushbutton control pad. Got a used unit off ebay that now powered up and allowed the truck to start. If you shift to reverse, the trans engages and you back up. Shift to N fine Then when you shift to drive, the 7 flashes...

TM 9-2320-365-34-2 APPENDIX H TRANSMISSION/TRANSMISSION CONTROLS ADAPTABILITY CHART

My 1993 M998 came with 95% tread M/Ts from 2001. Out of round and weather checked. Replaced with a nice set of BFG Bajas from 2011 that had been balanced well by the previous owner

My understanding is no. When I was trying to get a WTEC2 truck running, The info I was getting was that the control pad, the VIM, and the trans had to all be the same. The WTEC3 truck I'm working on now is way different. It seems like each iteration of WTEC controller have completely different...

Are there any boxes available anywhere anymore? Last time I looked for one nobody had any available

Now that you mention it, I have been seeing mostly USMC trucks.

Thats interesting. Whats the story behind this?

That's what I'm hearing as of late. CA has been pulling titles/plates at registration time so people with current registrations are losing them and selling cheap because they are now screwed. The old dodge of driving around with out of state plates is getting dicey with all the automatic plate...

Just a little tidbit that might help someone... Decades ago, I was riding shotgun with a friend that had just bought a chevy pickup that wouldn't go over 55 mph without running out of fuel. Fuel pump finally dies in the middle of nowhere and we find a new pump behind the seat and a tool kit...

That looks to me to be the remains of broken bolts. Try center punching and a small cobalt/TiN style quality drill bit. A cheap HS bit wont work usually. A couple sizes are needed to slowly get to just under the thread size and the final threads will come out....If you are good/lucky.

Yeah, They smoothed out with a few rpms but they were whipping and snapping into each other at idle which wasn't very confidence inspiring in the middle of nowhere where my property is. I wish I had the serpentine system for sure.

I got that same gauge in a set of HMMWV tools. I've used them in the past to good effect, but its nearly impossible to get a good reading on the HMMWV as close as the belts are to each other and other clearance related issues. I had a bad belt flopping problem that didn't go away with a new...

I was thinking upside down, too. You would need to see the top and truck side by side to see the magnitude of the mismatch. You would need two sheets of plywood across the bed to do right side up. Id do it that way upside down too to spread out the load.

1/4-20 is coarse thread. 1/4-28 is fine thread. Most common fine thread ive seen on these is 10-32. basically the next(common) size smaller fine thread.

Mine came without the disconnect. I was not looking forward to having to fool with that hose to get my belts changed due to not being able to reach through the fan blades. The thing that helped me the most was making a radiator protector/work platform to be able to lay out over all the pokey...

Ive noticed that all the M1165s on GP have keyed ignitions installed...incorrectly. They have the accessory position and they are clocked so when in "run" it is pointing at "start"

I have noticed the uptick in eyeballing. I figure as long as we don't cruise around in groups. My boss said I might have to carpool others to work when the checkpoints go up. I should probably leave my smoke generator in the shed, though...