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That's what I was thinking but I could not figure out why there is a hole in the top of the driver, maybe there is a piece missing?

Did the trailer carry a generator? Maybe ground rods for operating the generator in the field? Just guessing. So removing the shock made operating the surge brake easier, that's the way to do it.

Way to go Rick, job well done.

Well put Squibbly, I'll bet the majority of the members here feel the same way and would happily give not just Rick a hand but most members on this site.

Off Road Design has competition motor mounts, they do both sides for $170.00 remove the old ones, discard everything and replace them with this much better system. More money, better product, less hassle, and guaranteed fit. sku # GU32003

I think you would like to hear from someone with actual experience doing this procedure. I'm also sure you know you could google it on the internet. So for what it's worth, etrailer.com has a good video and detailed information on the process. As a well-known member on this site would say, you...

Why would you contaminate 660 gallons of fuel with 20 gallons of contaminated fuel. I think you know the answer to that question. Get some containers and get rid of them the proper way.

I think that makes the most sense!

Maybe it clamped down a jack or some kind of accessory?

Good observation, I believe you have got it dialed in.

Have you tried cycling the glow plugs twice before starting?

Awesome trailer, great find, that trailer had your name written all over it just waiting for you to pick it up. Glad it found it's way home.

Personally, I would junk that cheap modulator and replace it with the B&M quality modulator. Getting your transmission checked out would be the best alternative, but for my choice, even after getting it checked out, I would junk the cheap modulator.

Amazon has a B&M adjustable modulator for $37.96 #20234 pre-set for factory specs. with fine adjustment point for 2-4 mph at the modulator. They have other ones listed under 1984 k-30 6.2 diesel, check out the better ones.

I'll check it out for you. Yeah, I think I would do the same thing.

Shift points are going to vary depending on your driving habits. Quick acceleration or slow acceleration will change your shift points. Sounds like you are in the right range. The cheaper modulators I'm not a fan of. I like the best modulator you can afford. Also, I'm not a fan of the adjustable...

I believe it involves your clutch bands slipping and wearing out over time when they slowly engage. Quick firm engagement reduces the slipping. Not my area of expertise so I may not be correct in my opinion, but a firm shift is what you want. The modulators are usually set to the correct shift...

Take it to an automotive glass shop, they will fix it for you or sell you what you need to fix it.

Good job!

Seems like a simple process to figure out your problem. Stick your finger where it's leaking and stick it to your nose. You will know right away if it's diesel.