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The magnetic fuel filter is still at work collecting metal/rust particles. These old fuel tanks are death to some metal to metal surfaces within the IP in particular.
This is as of March 20, 2013. Probably time to check it again.
My guess is that tire chains were an option that bring superior traction even when lockers fail, such as icy, slippery conditions when both sides spin.
Also, we drive mostly with an empty truck bed. Check out Aberdeen vintage videos, where the vehicles are loaded to the max, which also...
...and do check the specific gravity of the electrolyte, open circuit voltage can be misleading and doesn't show actual charge.
Lead acid batteries that sit for long periods of time will not regain full AH capacity.
Adjusted according to TM, the EGT should not exceed 1,200 and the boost probably no more than 7 or 8 psi.
The exhaust manifold is split up between the front and the rear sets of three cylinders and the rears run about 50-100 °F higher...
Congrats on the acquisition, more pictures, please (and higher res if possible). My favorite deuce variant, for sure, built three different wooden beds for them over the years.
I'm getting rid of what's left of my MEP018, since a new generator head is hard to find at the right price, see my PM to you from a week ago or so. The 4A084 starts and runs good...
The sequence of the images may be reversed here, but the genset is removed from the truck (don't have the old...
Most of us probably don't use a torque wrench on lug nuts, but there is a difference between "wet" and "dry", otherwise there shouldn't be a problem with anti seize.
Consider an electrically heated whole house water heater for your WVO/VO tank (placed in truck bed). Use house current over night to heat before trip to work. Use diesel for trip back home if temperature of WVO/VO in the water heater isn't warm enough, although it may still be hot, these tanks...
This is the control box wiring (ignore the notes, which pertain to the coolant heater)
The original wiring diagram has an error, which is corrected here as seen.
The push to test light tells you that you have power (24VDC) going to the heater circuitry.
You have a newer version of the heaters that I'm most familiar with, but they basically work the same way.
If this is what you have, you should hear a clicking sound from the fuel valve solenoid cycling on the heater, the clicking rate is slow for "LO" mode and faster for "HI" mode.
In the...
The solenoid draws about 40 amps and the start motor 250 or so. Make sure your batteries are in top shape.
The start button can't handle 40 amps for very long and there should be a "starter" relay in the circuit to reduce the start button current load.
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