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No, ground all DC supplies to the same point, unless there is a reason to keep a battery "floating" like in serial connections to provide higher voltages.

You are welcome, glad I could help.

(With permission from the magazine) They may not be in correct order, but page numbers are on the images. For higher res, send me a pm with your email address.

Have had an inclinometer in my trucks since December 2000 for a bit of assurance. Note difference between degrees and percentage of slope measurement in the manuals.

Wrote an article on this and how to calculate location of center of gravity back in 2001 for MVM...

Make sure to run truck for at least 5 to 10 minutes after such a long "crank" to recharge the batteries. Batteries need to be topped off in cold weather.

I agree with manually reducing pressure to 10 psi or so to improve the "float effect". Adding weight is not the way to go to improve performance on sand. Duals are better, some even put duals in the front to reduce ground pressure. With the old bias plies, you could drive all day on 10 psi...

Probably won't make any measurable difference, here are some of my notes from way back, Correct me if I'm wrong, but the "clogged filter indicator" goes into the red at about 20 inches of water IIRC.

According to this, #460 is the same as #22. I would suspect that the turn signal switch is the problem. Remember that a high impedance DVM will measure and indicate voltages that may be close to zero on a wire when loaded down with a light bulb. Use a light bulb to check the presence of a voltage.

Like the last shot, here is a higher res image,

Not much to add, except perhaps that the designers paid more attention to suppression of electrical noise (toroidal cores) than usual.

I agree, but there are ways to improve the reliability. The sending unit is grounded via its mounting screws to the tank, to the fuel pump wiring and finally to the frame. To shorten this path, add a ground wire directly from the sending unit to the frame. The instrument cluster can be wired...

Yes, the sending unit and gauge relies on a number of ground connections along the path to give you perfect readings, which include the fuel tank itself and the instrument panel, but you may want to start with pulling the sending unit and checking its operation. The full and empty adjustments...

This is the bulb thing, You can also increase brightness, but no longer so red perhaps, by drilling the lens caps, Most of all, your instrument cluster may need a cleaning.

Here is a pic of an idea we played with years ago.

Yeah, the shovel method gives you a lot of leverage and the tire/wheel only needs to be lifted a few inches off the ground. Looking for a good way to handle the spare on my xm757 also, it weighs 205 lb, okay for two people, but I'm usually alone, so...

Outstanding restoration job!

If you spend a lot of time on hard paved roads, it's a good idea to remove the interbogie propeller shaft. It will reduce your turning circle by a lot, too...

If it's like any other starter system, the "click" would indicate low batteries or a bad connection. The relay needs only a fraction of the current to operate.

Beyond good resolution on my scanner, but it's like a fine powder and certainly abrasive to parts like the IP plunger and FDC piston (causing fuel to leak into the crankcase). I didn't want to take any chances with the, to the -2 engine, unique IP/FDC.