Search results

You must cage the brakes if you don't want to hookup air. And remove the front and rear driveshafts. You don't want the wheels turning the transmission without fluid pressure to provide lubrication. Technically you can do it for short distances under a specified MPH but I wouldn't risk it. Who...

Definitely more work. But worth it for the results. And can put the 3.07's back together with the open diffs from the truck and sell them. Swapping a ring gear carrier isn't that tough of a job - these are fairly large diffs but they aren't THAT big in the scheme of things. Only about 1" larger...

I would bet real money there's nothing he can't climb unless he hasn't got the traction. I've had my truck at the sand dunes, and off road here in the PNW mud and trails and not had any scenario where I had insufficient torque to spin tires. @ckouba has the 3.07's, lockers, AND ECO hubs on his...

Doubt it. That's probably about an extra 100 lbs. Wrenching for over 20 years has given me a pretty keen eye for such estimates. And when you subtract the weight savings of your 5 alloy rims it's probably irrelevant. Like I said I bet your truck is within 100 lbs of 18.500 lbs. The cab interior...

The winch does add a bit. @Lostchain has a 2003 M1078 w/winch and his truck is 18,500 on the scales. Your truck is probably very similar. Yes you have coil-overs but his truck has cab air ride so probably a wash there. Rear diff probably weighs a bit more but were not talking about 1,000 lbs...

Interesting - I wonder if the ABS ECU was the culprit for burning up the J1939 resistors.

See the comment above from @hike You will have plenty of low range. More than enough to overcome your ability to provide traction. You are seeing a drawback where none exists. You *want* something that's not being taken away. It's only your perception and understanding that's limited here. The...

Seriously - sell them after you pull the lockers out and do ECO hubs. Keep the 3.90's. The 3.07's aren't as good with the ECO hubs. So many benefits. Biggest is really saving the engine and transmission - that C6 thrust bearing - engine longevity from not screaming at redline. Literally no on...

You ran it over the scales? That seems excessively heavy for a 1078. My truck is 21,950 with me and the dog and some gear in the habitat. The M1079 box weighs 3,360 lbs although I did pull about 700 lbs of steel plating out of mine prior to going over the scales.

Yeah looking at old posts it does seem to be a 9/12 brake can. Later trucks like mine are apparently the 12/16 brake cans.

Interesting! The TM says it's an X24-3276J-10 which I assume would be a type 10.

A1 trucks are also ECU controlled. It's only the A0 that has a manual Ether button.

Wrong part for your 2003 anyway.

You can also just T off the port and leave the CTIS intact. Any reason you don't want to have it operational? You already have it and it's a really simple system that works well if you reasonably maintain it.

Correct. Looks like if you connect them it will illuminate the stop lights as if you were activating the Johnny brake for the M1088 trailer. If you ground them you will blow the circuit breaker. So yes heat shrink them individually and label them appropriately. Or follow them back into the...

I would wager it started with a C6 thrust bearing failure. Agree with Ron - drives in mode means C6 must be engaged. And if the TCM isn't reporting a problem then it's unable to detect the issue which means either an electrical failure causing C6 to remain engaged (seems unlikely) or C6 is...

Correct

Yep. And some will probably work because those guys throw parts at problems constantly. Still definitely a gamble.

Need the numbers printed on the wires to make a determination.

Need the wire numbers to trace them on the schematic. I haven't seen the TL numbers on there. Do you have the CTIS off switch that's part of the arctic kit? The tag seems to suggest it's related. Don't believe I have a switch in that location on my 1079.