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RockAuto has them.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/chevrolet,2001,express+3500,6.5l+v8+diesel+turbocharged,1371383,engine,rocker+arm+retainer,10316
Half price of everybody else. Real GM part.
Anything you want. I had to cut right up to the rivet nuts for the glow plug ballast resistor. I have not renwed the body mounts yet.
I went this route with the intention of adding air conditioning in the future.
You're going to have to build a small doghouse to clear the exhaust but the gas...
The only. Serious problem I see on these engines is the fire ring of the head gasket wears into the top deck of the engine block. I put Cometic gaskets in my engine but they require a specific surface finish. I'm not a big fan of Cometic products, either.
Negative, I did a ORD zero rate to offset the front axle 1.5 inches forward and put 37 inch tires on. This gives a better cruise. I had a choice, spend $1200 on a transmission for OD or $1200 and get some sweet tires.
In case anyone is else is dumb enough to try this, I finally reached a milestone putting a center mount 6.5 in my CUCV.
I'm just hoping it gets rid of that drone at 55mph 😉.
I just realized I have two 6.2 vintage crossover pipes. If you have a better pic I can confirm match. Give $50 and I'll pay for shipping, I think. That's a lot cheaper than the $300 ebay ones.
The GM 14 bolt axle is one of the most highly produced axles. They are always in junkyards. Should be easy to find parts.
You could also go the industrial supply route.
You can get a knurled pin and cut your own groove, maybe with a hacksaw.
McMaster-Carr Page...
Not anti-seize. That stuff is a thread lubricant to prevent galling during tightening. It has poor corrosion protection once it's base oils evaporate away. Much better to use a silicone or Teflon based grease. Dielectric grease is most common for silicone, I use Dow Corning Molykote 111, it's a...
My engine swallowed a piece of a star washer some time back. It embedded in the piston vs being ejected but not before scoring a cylinder. It also made a nasty knocking noise until it embedded.
On the bottle, look for the API oil category.
https://www.api.org/products-and-services/engine-oil/eolcs-categories-and-classifications/oil-categories#tab-diesel-c-categories
In the past, all oils marketed for diesel engines were C category. Typically, any changes superceded previous...
The 3rd and 4 digits on the part number are the pump size. DB2829 and DB2831 I believe. The 6.2 engines all came with DB2829-**** pumps. The hottest 6.5 pump was the DB2831-4911
Glow plug tip should be non-magnetic. A clean vacuum (so you can see if you caught it) on the injector hole should be your best bet. Bring the piston near TDC. You may need to pull a valve cover and jack a valve open to get enough airflow to pull it out.
I am putting a turbo on my truck. I went to add 1/4 turn to the fuel screw on the pump and couldn't, it was maxed out. The truck ran at sea level with minimal smoke at max stroke. I checked another pump I had run on the engine and was only to add 1/8th. I think 1/4 over stock is essentially max...
Ideally you want short+fine injectors 1988+ with lines from a 1988-1993 engine. 6.2 or 6.5 doesn't matter. I think any year 1988+ HMMWV lines will work. There are small differences between center mount and side mount/NA lines but for side mount applications I think any line will work.
The 6.2...
It doesn't require a full hydraulic lock and the diesel combustion chamber is certainly much smaller than that. Using the compression release may let the engine come up to a sufficient speed to bend a rod once the exhaust valve closes.
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