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Welcome and there ia a ton of info here on this site. In short, the military went through several iterations of head gaskets until they found one, and torque specs, that they felt holds up better than the previous ones.
The multifuel engines are all high compression engines and that is hard on...
As the harmonic balancer gets old, the rubber hardens, it no longer absorbs/cushions energy pulses and knowledgeable people suspected (here on the forum) that this contributes to the "mysterious" crank shaft breakage that a few engines have been found to have. I have been thinking about...
The army seems to disagree, at least in the TM9-2815-210-34-2-1 Maintenance of the multifuel engine : "1-11. METRIC SYSTEM. The equipment/system described herein is nonmetric and does not require metric common or special tools. Therefore, metric units are not supplied...
I never saw a conclusive answer. It appears to be a straight NPT thread, called a "Boss" thread, used in hydraulics and oil drain plugs. A 7/8-18 was mentioned FWIW. I used the metric plugs with teflon tape and never had an issue. I know they are not the "right" thread, just "close enough".
It is less about the fuel getting in and making the oil overflow, it is more about the fuel diluting the oil, thinning it to where it gushes out through a seal that would otherwise still have been ok.
The OP said that he lost eight quarts of engine oil over 160 miles (that is a 3-4h drive). That makes it unlikely that it is gear oil from the transmission.
The concern about fuel getting into the oil is something to check, though, before dropping the tranny etc. When engine oil becomes...
But if there is no oil seepage and no drips on the ground how do you know where to park your truck when you come back home? And is it not all going to rust without the oil protection? And if you ever go to a car show with it, they'd make you park with the shiny stuff, where owners polish chrome...
FWIW, I expected the worst when doing my torque rods and, as it turned out, Murphy was on vacation. I was a bit surprised by how "easily" they came out (yes, BFH, hitting on the right places (on the side, not the stud) and the wood block/wedge method and I was aching the next day) but other...
There are several threads on this. The gist is, loosen the injector lines before re-tightening. They seat better that way. Do not over-tighten. Check the hex plug in the middle. It should be very tight. It is a tapered fit and torqued ape-tight, but if they leak a flat copper washer under the...
Frank, good point and, yes, only a little while back when I swapped tanks! I cleaned the in tank pump and put a new hose on. Made sure she works.
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It does run without the pump..it actually starts fine without the in tank pump. As far as I can see there is one scenario where it appears to at least occasionally die with the in tank pump off and that is going from a longer stretch of WOT to idle (which is exactly the situation at the...
Very nice score! Is that the seal setup from the late model 3053 transmissions that actually had an input shaft seal? I know that a while back, Jeepsinker tried very hard to make a modified part and I think Steve 6x6x6 did as well. I can't remember what came of it. Mine definitely has the...
No, 12V is not correct. You should see 21-24V there......UNLESS perhaps you put your (-) on the "wrong" battery terminal and only have one battery in play? I would double check with a different ground.
If you have regular 24V headlights (incandescent or halogen) they would not light up well on...
I wanted to provide an update, in case someone experiences similar issues.
- the aux switch ("main switch") was defective; no more sudden switching off of all gauges and the in-tank pump while driving, with the new switch installed. I have not opened the old one (yet) to find out what the...
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