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When changing the fuel filters helps with the fuel starvation problem, the next question is why the filters clogged up in the first place. Unless they had been there forever and were never changed, of course. You could have crud in the tank that gets stirred up or algae or ... Your new filters...

Oh no! Sorry to hear that. "No air sounds" is definitely an airpack issue. You have been around the airpack for a while now and I do not want to come across as condescending - but the air sounds are not crazy loud and can easily be missed over an idling truck. I assume you tried it with air...

Common causes are air restrictions (dirty air filter) or fuel restrictions (clogged primary or secondary filters, crushed fuel line underneath radiator crossmember, clogged fuel line somewhere between tank and injection pump). Bypassing the FDC will help because it is akin to "turning up the...

This guy uses glow plugs and injects gasoline into the exhaust of his PowerStroke: Exhaust Flames

Finished some wiring Front flashers

Less than a Thousand would be a good price. It's worth a few hundred in scrap ( which is essentially what it is right now; non running, no bed, etc)) Sent from my SM-G950W using Tapatalk

That's always the question, isn't it? You are not alone in dreading it, so did I. I decided to bite the bullet and do it all. One thing that pisses me off way more than a long and tedious repair job is to have to do it over again because something else broke that I could have changed the first...

Bleed hole in master cylinder (small hole to the rear, at the bottom) clogged or sticky airpack! My 5 cents.

Go to google.com Type in your search, follwed by site:steelsolders.com Like so: Deuce flipping hubs site:steelsoldiers.com Lots of great threads.

Thank you and you are absolutely right. It is on my to-do list. It was ok without power steering, but with the power steering now it really is squirrely on the road. I need to fix that. Check toe in, adjust to close to 0 and then shave the high side of the spring shim perch caster plate thingy.

Passenger side: The truck is not on fully level ground; the driver side is slightly compressed but still has about a 1 in arch to it. The passenger side is slightly decompressed and arches about 1 1/2 - 2 in. Certainly not a 4 in arch as in your new springs, but not totally flat, either...

I noticed that my front fender had a 3 inch crack in it. I welded it in the course of some other repairs but it bugged me. I also noticed that the headlight panel on that side always shook a lot more than the other side. Well, here is the reason. Lazy a** soldier B mounted the fender onto the...

Was looking for the good old caster mod and had to manually fix the URL in old threads to get to this - so hopefully re-posting it here makes it accessible for others.

I am counting 12 leafs in your old a new springs. Common wisdom is that w/w trucks had 2 (or sometimes 3) leafs added to the 10 standard leafs. My w/w truck's front springs look "almost" flat. They have a very small arch. I'll tale a pic tomorrow and measurements.

Before you do the expensive stuff, do two things: 1) Check the bottom of the master cylinder reservoir for rust or crud in the small bleed hole to the rear of the larger front hole in the bottom of the reservoir. You might have to draw out some of the brake fluid with a turkey baster to see the...

Good point, Floridianson. I think the stroke is diminished without the button but it may still move up and down. Hard to measure the difference. I guess if the plunger is stuck - bingo. If it turns out to be moving, the next step is to remove the HH and check the button/bowtie.

Take the center bolt out of the HH, put a pencil or wooden dowel in and see if the plunger inside the head moves up and down when cranking. If it does not, then your center clip has fallen off.

My truck is otherwise totally rust-free. The front cab corner was rusted through due to the area below the vent being packed with dirt and leaves when I got the truck 10 years ago; about time I fixed it! The fenders are badly designed with two sheets of steel on top of each other and the seams...

Removed passemger side fender, cut out the rusted through front cab corner and welded in a patch: Then I tackled the fender. The front lip where it mounts to the fender support had rust jacking. Cut the whole lip out and made a new one. Fender was cracked in the front as well...

Can't think of anything inside the confinements of the block that uses an O-ring like this. Perhaps from the canister oil filters? Honestly, I would not worry too much about it. I lean towards something that soldier B dropped and it ended up in the oil pan.