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The only spar lube I use is some silicone spray for sliding windows, I use on the window channel felts and it helps them go up easier.

YOU DO HAVE THE BATTERIES DISCONNECTED, RIGHT? "What steps are required to open up the fuse box" your halfway there, just unscrew that single bolt in the center of the under hood plug and that separates all the under hood wiring from the fuse box. What I'd do isjust cut the 'hot' wire going to...

You didn't say if you had popped it into neutral while coasting, did the noise change?

Well the bad news is you only see about 25% of the rust, or that may be the good news? At this point you only have two options, 1 stuff scuff and spray it or #2 find a donor body in a junk yard and weld the 'new' roof on. #2 is by far the better choice but requires knowledge and tools you may...

Yeah, 3/8 bolts work just fine until they don't! I made that mistake many years ago, the 3/8 seemed to go in almost perfectly but not quite they had just a bit of drag right up to the moment they were almost tight and poof STRIPPED!

I too would pull the engine, if for no other reason then I HATE laying on my back drilling and grinding. But some folks don't mind. It would also be easier to find a welder to do the job if you can't weld cast.

It can be welded (usually) if you do, chances are you won't get it lined up perfectly for the starter to mount up. The 2 starter bolts might go in ok but the mount on the end of the starter won't fit properly. (That end bracket is probably missing and why the block broke, don't ask how I know)...

The weekend is half over now, how are you doing? I hope your running 17 (southern tier x-way) and not I 90. Speed limits mostly the same but much less traffic on 17 and you can travel slower and not get run over! Good luck.

Not sure if this will help but my after market tach picks up the engine RPM from the alternator, all it is is a small wire that runs into the back of the alternator thru one of the vents and attaches to any ONE (just one) of the positive diodes.

HAHA, Mister CUCV himself have a spare cucv part? The man has or have had almost as many CUCV as the army did!

Those bolts go into a floating plate, so if you can get in behind it and remove it then it's easy to drill them out or heat them up. You will not be able to hammer an extractor for two reasons 1 it's broken off to short and 2 hammer on it and you will drive the plate into the pillar and it might...

I hate to say it but it looks like your throwing money away on that thing. Unless you can find a donor truck (civvie cab will work) then I'd start parting it out. Even with the correct harness from Hillbilly there's just so much else wrong that you'd need to start from scratch. If it was mine...

If it needs replacing then do it! Do not wait, these trucks don't steer worth a darn without the power nor do they have much braking ability without the PS pump.

ATF is about 10 weight oil (with anti corrosion additives) and the acetone is making it even thinner, I'd clean the tubes and remove any rust then grease the heck out of it.

I think the timing is already advanced all the time and when you plug it back in it's advanced to much. Like said above probably done for the turdblower. I'd leave it alone.

Love the Rusfre products, they also have an amber colored non drying product for inside doors, rockers, ectra that flows out great! When ever I replace doors I tape up the drain holes at the bottom and spray or pour some in the door and let set for a few minutes then turn on each side for a bit...

And I was just about to tell you DON'T PAINT IT OD!! Those things are hot enough here in NY summers, I can't even imagine having a non-AC equipped OD green Blazer in AZ !

I would at minimum drop the pan and look inside check for cracks and 'junk', while in there a set of bearings wouldn't hurt. At this point you might as well pull the heads and have them sent out (it needs head gaskets anyway) so now cut the ridge (if any) and hone the cylinders and install new...

Just a tid bit of info here, you mentioned replacing hoses. When replacing heater hoses do NOT twist the hose off the heater core! It will almost assuredly cause a leak in the core. Instead remover the clamp and then use a sharp knife or razor blade to slice lengthwise along the hose the just...

I think you totally misunderstood my meaning, or I may have not made myself understood and for that I apologize.