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Yes , a new pump is expensive but worth it. Get a NEWLY rebuilt pump or have yours rebuilt, do not get an older NOS (new old stock) pump as those seals are just as old as the seals in your pump. Could a rubber fuel line be getting soft from the heat of driving and the collapsing thus starving...

OK< maybe I'm wrong, after all that's why I wrote IIRC that stands for "If I Remember Correctly. It's been almost 20 years since I worked in a body shop and I know I haven't changed a HL switch in at least that long. I thought to remove the switch it was a push-twist-pull and then gently pull...

I've had the same problem in years past and had good luck putting a bushing in the hole and welding the worn out part of the hole up. The bushing is trashed but keeps the weld in 'place' so no drilling is required (if done right) usually a small round rat tail file to make a second bushing fit...

I'd be checking for voltage at the motor before I got into the steering column, speaking of that it really isn't that bad to do. Look on u tube and you'll find some vids IIRC it can be done with the steering wheel in place, just whatever you do DO NOT pull the old wires out with tieing a string...

And if anybody wants one of those C code manifolds I just happen to have one or two of them, I can even make a deal that's hard to turn down FREE! Why I've saved them all these tears I have no idea!

Don't forget the upper rad hose, heater hoses and a thermostat! Do the all now or one at a time over the next few years. Also when removing the heater hoses from the heater core do NOT just twist them to break them loose! Doing so can cause leaks in the heater core. Instead of twisting them use...

Tying the shaft up is what I've always done. The front shaft stays in and the hubs get UNLOCKED. IIRC if you flat tow farther then 50 or so a bearing in the T-case starts to lose lubrication and burns up. In normal driving it receives oil from being driven by the input shaft. I hope I said that...

The 6.2 is a 6.2, nothing different for a '1 ton', small difference for civvie vans like injectors and I know the injector lines were different in 1982 than 83 and up, but timing chains should all be the same

Every one needs a test light! Well ok, most folks should have one in their 'kit' and know how to use to find a 'hot' wire and to find a ground. Next purchase after the test light is a multi meter used to measure the power you find and the resistance.

Replace the pins and bushings, do NOT replace the whole hinges unless you know what your doing! Lots of room to never get get them adjusted right again. On the top hinge there is a PIA bolt that goes from the inside out, not sure if you have to remove the parking brake assy. or not, I just...

The top can be fixed but in the one pic it looks like the front seal has been boogered up and leaked. Now might be the time for new seals and a new top, yes the civvie top will bolt right on. Make sure you all the seals and watch out for the 'hidden' bolts! IIRC there is one bolt on each side in...

Some GM civvie trucks had a remote steering reservoir like that but not that bracket, I would leave that for one of the last things to do. Before trying to start it determine if it's still 24volts or been converted to 12 and make sure the batteries are FULLY charged. You can easily hot wire the...

Now that would NEVER have occurred to me!

I'm not trying to be a wise guy but the best thing you can do is avoid having to jump start it at all. Load test your batteries and clean all connections and keep them tight. Keep the alt. belts tight too. And don't forget the connection on the starter itself. A little time and work this time...

Good catch, I was thinking along the same lines. After all the pressure is the same then the stopping force should be the same IF all parts are equal. I thought he had installed the primary shoe in the rear position not both primaries on one side!

I know nothing about the after market wheel mentioned above, might work great for soccer mom and a grocery getter but for a real truck that that hauls fire wood or goes off road, nope, not for me! A good friend and I went wheeling years ago and he had a set of the old (new at that time) wagon...

Fuses may be good, but are they making contact? Also that fuel solenoid has to go thru the ignition switch, (before or after fuse IDK) . I'd start with the pink wire itself and check for voltage at that corroded spot first. Good luck, electrical gremlins can be a PIA!

Shocks do not carry any weight unless they are air shocks or have a spring mounted to them. All a shock does is absorb energy and thus stop the axle rebound. In other words it cuts out the 'sea-saw' effect when you hit a bump. Replace the springs AND shocks.

Your right, I have a DOD purchased K5 Blazer and it's far from a CUCV. First is it's red, second is the red velour interior and PW PL and power gate, lets not forget the 350 gas and the TH700R4. Nice truck but it's not green!

Bead blast and paint, probably your only choice.