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OK, next thing I'd be looking at is the fuel lines, in the OP you said you changed the tank. Perhaps you pinched a line between the tank and frame?

Maybe it is a vacuum, have you tried loosening the filler cap and see if it will continue to run?

Try posting a pic or two, I'm trying to figure out what switch you're talking about.

Yes, check your power steering drive belt, I bet it's loose or worn down or both.

In a nut shell, Some folks call it 'porting and polishing'. You'd think that the intake and exhaust passages in the head would match up closely to the manifolds , right? Well next time you have an engine apart place a intake manifold gasket on the manifold and look at how it doesn't match the...

I don't see how the drive shafts could have effected the rear main, someone would've had to work REAL hard to do that! It's kinda like blaming your oil leak on the guy that recovered your seat cushion.

I'd use paint stripper, apply to one panel and then cover with plastic. While thats sitting place scrap sheets of cardboard under it to catch drips and spray/brush a second panel and cover then go back to the first and scrap the gunk off using a plastic body filler spreader. Keep one panel...

I'm thinking along the lines of valve cover gasket or maybe even a small fuel leak from the filter and picking up dirt and undercoating on the way down.

Just leave it as is, the alternators are only 12 volts each as are the batteries and everything except the glow plugs so why bother?

Try the left hand bit! 9 times out of 10 it will grab it and unscrew it/

If it is broken, try using a sharp pointed center punch and hammer and tap it out or get a left-hand drill bit and they usually unscrew themselves.

Oh yeah, DITCH THE LIFT BLOCKS!!!! The front shaft and T case should be ok, good luck.

Take it to a frame shop, an old school one that knows what they are doing and not relying on a computer readout to tell them where to hook and how much to pull. That left frame horn is dumped down and that means it's 'kicked' up above the wheel and probably swayed over to the right. All easy fix...

Good info CUCVRUS, I've seen u-joint caps spot welded in place before but your pic is impressive!

For sure the problem is on the fuel side NOT the ignition side. I've never done it but I remember reading where a person can put the injector pump cover back on wrong and block the solenoid valve open thus it won't shut off. I don't think thats your problem, just tossing it out there.

Exactly, unless you pull the pan and clean it out what happens? I can tell you (YMMV) the sludge collects in one convenient place, unfortunately that place is the oil pick up screen and that blocks the oil from getting to the oil pump. I think you can guess what happens when said engine gets no oil.

Absolutely nothing, but being the nice guy I am I am willing to drive all the way there and tow it away just to help you out.

If the local shop can make up the U bolts then I'm sure they can help you with the springs themselves, they might even still have new old stock sitting on the shelf for a deal.

I think you just want to brag about your truck, that's ok I would too!

Most all of LMC is after market made by non-oem suppliers and will be "will fit" and will have possiblly been changed over the years to fit other years/models, hence the "will fit"