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That MARSH Font does look really close. It's spot on, except for the odd rounded corners on the M/N/V/W.

Free All is a premium penetrant, similar to Kroil. While it's an endless argument of which is the best, the premiums generally all work better than PB Blaster, and you're not going to get significantly different results from one premium over another. If you normally use Kroil, just stick with...

Yes, but there are still more than 2 different O/0's, so I think there are more than one font used. They would be fairly similar though (e.g. cuts in the same spot, just slightly different widths and styles, perhaps). This collage is just a sampling... I have a whole folder of pictures that...

Does anyone know what the correct font for FMTV stencils is? Here is a collage of images from my archive, showing various FMTV stenciled lettering. Some key letters to note the shape of... Letter "F" only has one cut, in the top horizontal stick. Letter "E" has cuts in only the top and bottom...

I drive mine around at (and above 10,000ft). It's fine.

Yes, the backing nut does not affect the leaking, it's just a jam nut so they don't come unscrewed. I didn't try thread sealant.

Range was ok. I've since taken it off because the little sensor caps leaked slowly, and would run the tires flat from sitting for several days. For $20 it was a fun experiment.

I have a simpler one, without temp, but still with pressure and solar. I think it was $20. Seems like a big change in price to add temp. Like this one, but I only paid $20 for it from one of the zillion Chinese resellers...

My ladder just pushes in about 6" further, and the pin goes in behind it (not through it or into) so it can't come out. EDIT: Just saw your update.

Can you just cut the nut off with a Dremel with an abrasive wheel? Or get a nut splitter on it?

Yes, that is the problem. "Look boss, I fixed it, kind of. Not right, but good enough to kick the can down the road." And for some of the things, like my fan switch, it didn't even work, so it made things worse. If you don't have time/money to do it right, when will you have time to do it over?

You have to unbolt the whole heater box and move it toward the rear of the truck several inches (make sure to rotate, unlock, and remove the heater air duct hoses on both sides first). The connector you're looking for is pretty much directly in the center, way deep down (floor level) against...

100% not. Based on the corrosion, paint shadows, etc., most of these things on my truck have been there for MANY years, perhaps decades. And my truck was never deployed off the base. Also, judging by many of the auction trucks, they don't seem to give a damn about "getting them ready for...

What puzzles me with these kind of "fixes" is whether they are genius, or stupidity? My truck also had the 230°F coolant switch, that is supposed to turn the warning light on, wired to the fan clutch... so the fan always ran and would have shut off at 230°F. So is the idiot that did that the...

The driveline is an area of surplus FMTVs that often needs some work, and can lead to expensive repairs if left un-fixed. I recommend any new owner take a look at the background and repairs for the driveshafts listed in my document here in my signature. And yes, the Tiger Tool is a great tool...

I have A1 doors on my truck, so they are forward-pull handles, not the up/down type.

For several months, my passenger door has been sticking when trying to open it. You have to lift up on the door to get it open. The outer latch looked a little busted, and the plastic portion was cracked and sticking up. So I ordered a new latch, and today I started taking apart the old one...

https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/essential-tools-to-have-for-an-fmtv-add-your-02.152218/

There is another post about this, that goes into quite a bit of detail. Better to go there than reinvent the wheel.

Just tell her to think of all the shoes she can haul in that thing!