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They are not apples-to-oranges, a rotating mass is a rotating mass, and you balance them the exact same way. You did say they didn't work, you called them "snake oil" which is exactly what that means. Your argument then is that nothing should ever be balanced to any extent because it's a...

I'm not sure where this skepticism is coming from. Dynamic balancers work really well - better than static balancing (within the range of imbalance the model can handle). They're significantly more expensive though, so if regular balancing weights will do (e.g. you don't need the dynamic...

Just for the record, unless you live up in the mountains (Denver is not there, it's in the flat plains of the state) we don't get much snow. I totally agree with your plan, but it never happens. These trucks suck on just iced-over roads, and need some snow depth to get a grip, which is...

If you're asking when the government ("they") upgraded all the FMTV shafts to the Designation "D" shafts, were they balanced? I think the answer is yes, but I'm not sure to what extent. My driveshafts did not have any visible balancing weights, or obvious external machining marks (e.g...

You're right, it is a short run. I still recommend using a larger line if you can. If you know a flexible line of the same size is going to reduce flow some amount, and you don't know what long term effects that may have, why chance it? That's a good example you gave though. Maybe cut a...

There are vibrations that can be felt, as well as unusual people like yourself perhaps that have driven a zillion miles and can feel everything. I'm not as experienced as you, but no newbie to mechanics and vibrations either, and I COULD NOT TELL even when paying attention for it. Whether you...

I think you might be reading it backwards, which is why I was trying to phrase it as "metal tube" and "flexible hose", not just "tube" and "hose". The metal tube has the more consistent ID. Basically everything is better about metal tubing, except that it isn't flexible, so you should always...

I disagree with a lot said here. 1.) My Spicer u-joints did come with the tab washers. Clearly some don't, but if some do, Spicer must not think they are a bad idea. The part number for them separately is Spicer 98-741 ("lockstrap"). 2.) Loctite does work pretty well, but tab washers...

A lot of the suggestions/ideas being made here are not well informed. Solid tubes are better at most things (which is why they put it there in the first place). If your compressor isn't loose, and the tube isn't corroded, it's not likely to fail, and the metal tube is a good choice. The few...

Mine both required balancing, new u-joints, and one of them even a yoke replaced. The imbalance cracked the engine block, even though you really couldn't feel anything serious from inside the cab (e.g. little or no warning, until stuff starts breaking). The shaft with the yoke replaced was...

I don't think there is a civilian part number for the military tach. It has has a part number (which is here in the parts spreadsheet in my signature), but you can't just buy it on the open market. What Suprman is saying is that there are civilian tachs that are the same size, that are not...

There are no markings or NSN numbers anywhere on it, as far as I could find. As you can see from the pictures of it draped over the LMTV bed, it's for a vehicle that is either not quite as tall, or slightly narrower, as the sides can't reach down far enough on an LMTV. The zip open window in...

I bought a cargo cover that was supposed to be for my LMTV, but this clearly isn't. I want to sell it off, but don't know what it's for. Do you?

Everything about this opinion is so naive. You're free to do as you wish, but if you can't figure out why a part 4x the size, for a truck 4x the size, would cost 4x as much, it seems like the topic is lost on you. I'm happy to get discounted or surplus parts whenever I can, but if I have to...

I have the ZeroStart freeze plug style heater. It helps start the engine when it's below freezing, though the engine doesn't get particularly difficult to start (without the heater or ether) until it's in the teens or lower. You need to leave it plugged in for a couple hours and it will help...

Keep in mind that you may have bought the truck for $15,000, but it's really a $100,000 truck. So in the context of it being a $100,000 truck, I don't find the prices of things to be that unexpected. I just consider it lucky when we do get a break and Uncle Sam sells off some expensive parts...

Then I would recommend McMaster part number 90040A150, "Center-Lock Distorted-Thread Locknut, Low-Strength Steel, Grade 2, Zinc-Plated, 3/4"-16 Thread Size" https://www.mcmaster.com/90040a150 This is an educated guess, and has not been tested yet. The -24P TM lists the original nut...

I think it's because that guide is actually about removing the gear, not just replacing the nut. So they want you to bolt the compressor back on to hold it well, then you make sure the gear is hammered on completely, then retighten the nut in case the gear moved onto the shaft more. It would...

It's a standard commercial part, I think. My old clutch had stopped turning off (stuck on), so I replaced it. I bought it new online somewhere for about $375 or $475. I tried to put the old fan back on it, found it didn't fit, and bought a NOS of the new fan type from eBay for about $100...

It's in the TMs. Anywhere the TM talks about removing the fan (including for other unrelated reasons, like during an engine swap), it has a note that says something about discarding the old fan and clutch, and using the new part numbers. You have to change them both, by the way, as the new fan...