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Lifting it vertically would actually be easier than pulling it out of deep mud.

When they say "pry", it doesn't involve a lot of force. The plastic cover just has a small plastic lip around it that snaps over the flat metal body of the handle underneath. Gently pull/"pry" the plastic lip over the metal and it comes off easy.

Just to make sure you already checked, many of the trucks have a diagram on the inside of the cover that take off to access the panel. I didn't know it was there on mine for a while, because I always took it off and set it down in the same orientation.

I used one of those grease fitting cleaner tools that you hit with a hammer, filled with Kroil penetrating oil. If at first that doesn't work, put a jack between the leaf spring and the frame, and jack it up to release the pressure on the shackle joint, while trying the tool again.

I'm just waiting on screws from McMaster. Then they'll be available. I already 3D printed some up, though now I'm mostly printing COVID-19 supplies for hospital workers.

I keep whole folders of every useful picture I've ever seen. I highly recommend it.

In the meantime, there are pictures of all of it in the -24P and other manuals. None of them are precision parts. They are just a handful of rollers and pulleys mounted here and there to keep the cable from hitting stuff (mounted to bolt holes already on the frame, so it's obvious where...

You could easily fabricate one. You can see in the picture there, it's just a pair of rollers on some extra parts of the bracket. The whole setup includes several other rollers and guides for the cable, that go along the frame, but they too are not very complicated or hard to make. I have the...

It is a different mount, which includes the roller. However, it's only held on with a few bolts, so I don't foresee it being too big a hassle to swap. One thing people who are on the fence (SRW vs electric) should know is that despite having similar pull ratings, the winches are in two totally...

No, you are pretty much literally "slapping on the winch and plugging in the wires", or at least that's how mine is going so far. It was complete and working when it was taken off the truck, and the seller included all the parts. Even the non-winch trucks have all the wiring and mounting holes...

I don't think I've seen anyone post pictures of a rear mounted one. Also, if you're only avoiding the factory side-mounted style so that you can have another fuel tank, keep in mind that there is a ton of space for a fuel tank up above the rear driveshaft. Either way you're going to have to...

There was a YouTube video too, that I saved this picture from, but don't remember who's it was.

They fit over the standard splined shaft, and have a retaining screw that goes in the OEM hole in the shaft. No modifications to the truck, if that's what you're asking.

There's not a lot of truth to this. You get an SRW setup off a donor truck for a couple grand, and it includes everything you need. There is no "retrofitting"... it's very straightforward bolt-on, plug the wiring harness in, and go. I'm installing mine now.

The 3D printed ones have worked flawlessly so far (a couple years now), so I never got around to having metal ones made. However, now I see someone is selling 3D printed handles on eBay for $60 a pair. In my opinion, that is WAY overpriced. I'll make some and post them for sale, at around 1/2...

Is that extending hitch in your picture military, or custom? It looks like there is a 1" thick steel plate where the pintle is connected. You should be able to get around and put bolt holes in the bottom of it. Or weld to it.

Couldn't you just make a new center piece, and swap them? Or does that not come out?