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It's one grand experiment, that's for sure! Let's just say I won't be getting rid of the other gears right away. Another benefit is it slows down drive shaft speed, which is a known issue for our trucks.

Well the taller gears will put the transmission range into where it was designed to operate mph wise (off the shelf product meant for highway trucks), therefore making the lower gears more useable on hill, so in fact hill pulling speeds may increase. Just like when you put bigger tires on the...

Over priced auction site indeed. A tool to set the gear lash in ambloid gear reduction hubs. The tool will actually hold the gear pack in place so the actual lash can be measured, vise going strictly by measurements and hoping your gears were machines to spec. The center sections I got are...

Got shims from the evil e site. Cutting up the cover to make a tool to set gear lash with. You can do it per the TM but Steve6x6 has come up with a better method. Had to buy an entire hub rebuild kit for the hub cover to modify. You have to pull the front hubs to pull the axles out enough...

Hopefully in the next couple of weeks I can finally get my gears installed. Center sections, check New seals for front hubs, check Seal drivers, check new u-joints, check u joint tool, check hub nut socket, check shims for setting gear lash, check modified hub cover for setting gear lash...

10 min at the DMV in WA. I walked out with plates. Commercial, for non commercial use. Not all cars have 17 number vin and their system would accept that.

I have one broken on the handle part that you lift up on. When I try to fix it I may have to make a template of the part everyone else is having issues with for future repair. Thanks for the idea and proof it can be done.

I had to replace all of mine up there. Will's brakes still work, could be a small crack in the diaphragm leaking air, but not enough that the compressor can't keep up with.

Dang that could be tough to sort out. At least you have other trucks to look at

I got mine from suprman, Was cheaper through him than anywhere else I could find. He posted in page 1 of this thread.

700 miles seems like a bit of a run for a flat tow. I would look at cost of having it shipped on a trailer, vs the round trip fuel, hotels, food, and unknown working brake systems on the truck.

Remember the bed height is 5'. That's a lots higher than a lot of commercial trucks, add in soft suspension for off road and you learn quickly cog effects it a lot. Many FMTV also have a roll gauge in them to help prevent roll overs. The mil has rolled a ton of these trucks. Also they are...

The geared hubs make noise. Check the gear lash as described in other threads and put in quality oil. When I'm off power or at equilibrium on the throttle, my hubs make a racket. I'm going as far as making the tool that Steve 6x6 uses to attempt to get mine straight.

I put the back up camera in as well. Money well spent. However the location I used is blocked by the tail gate when it's down. I no longer have to back up until it sounds expensive when parking. I will be following this thread for all the good ideas.

Now you know why they got rid of it. Easy day.

It has a 12' bed. So what ever can fit in that I would guess

Exactly

The connection point to the door is the same for the interior door handle and the window crank. So I will use a window crank for both.

Thanks for the info. Just ordered a four pack. They can also be used as interior door handles as well. I have a broken window crank and door handle to replace.

It's out of a parts truck