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maybe this will help your visual

The old pcb is held on by your light sockets just twist and pull them out and push out the 3 pins for the fuel gauge and the pcb just falls off. You have to take the wire harness loose to. Disconnect batteries before doing any of the above. Also it is easier with the dash pad off. No sticky...

Update: 4x4 light now works. Gen1 light now works. Oil light now works. Gauge backlights work. Fuel gauge appears to work i got a little over half a tank. Blinker lights work and bright light indicator works. Now i have no gen2 light when i had one before

Thanks for the advice Warthog I have already serviced the bulb sockets with a brass wire brush and a little dioelectric grease. Did the same with the pigtail. Haven't checked the ground wire yet i will though.

Just got a update from the shipping company. My pcb is waiting on me at home. The what all it fixed update will come late this afternoon or tomorrow.

I ordered the dummy light pcb it should be here on the 18th. I will try to get it in this weekend and give updates on what it fixed. None of my cluster backlights worked. My gen 1 light didn't work and my fuel gauge didn't work so it would be nice if this fixes all of it being that it controls...

I had the same problem with my wipers. I thought it was my switch but it turned out to be the moving parts behind the main outer firewall had froze from corrosion. Sprayed with chain oil. Cleaned and dioelectric greased all my plugs and removed the three noise cancelers and all is well now. Hope...

The cooling line would probably be your safest bet. It might not be exact but it should be close as far as the reading you get.

I do believe you some how video taped me the last time I replaced a direct drive starter

10-4 I appreciate the info I will be ordering it soon then hopefully my electronics will be ironed out

Thats what I was hoping to hear. The po of this thing just let it go badly so now I am attempting to resurrect it. Mainly electrical stuff that has crapped out.

Had both alternators tested. Replaced decayed exciter plugs on both. Put in L.E.D. headlights and blinkers (ordering tail lights soon) ordered a new 24v starter since the po put on a 12v one which burned out recently. Soon to be putting that and a new flex plate on. Have gone through 80 percent...

I realize this topic has been touched on many times but in every thread I read it states that there is not an aftermarket pcb that will work on the M1009. Well my pcb is shot which is causing one of my gens not to work and none of my cluster lights. After searching around on good ole google for...

I need this as well but can't get the attachment to open then again I could just need to enter the full site instead of the mobile version.

Yeah I guess some times you have to try several different things to get to the bottom nut thanks for the help BTW RTR

Thanks guys and I do have alot of plans for him so I will keep every one posted as time goes on

Thanks everyone for all the suggestions I was ready to give it up but I really love my M1009 his name is Gunny

Ok it was a bad front battery whoooooo got him going again hooked the jumps to the front battery and he fired up I did not think to just change one battery and apparently the two smaller ones from the other vehicles just did not have enough juice

ok when she hit the key it jumped down to about 16 so what does that mean

k will give it a shot