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I'll try that and report back. When should the led come on?

OK so I replaced the regulator with the new one and still not charging. I re tested the voltages and here is what I have. 23.5 VDC @ the red terminal(battery voltage) 47 VAC @ the two stator wires, generator running wires free and not hooked to terminal block 23 VAC @ terminal block...

They have a flange on the top so I don't think you can drive them out. I think your best bet is to drill the broken piece out and re-tap the nut.

Tom, the connection for those lines is directly below and centered under the governor housing, it comes out of the block as a T, the drain tube goes straight down and the air line comes out to the right with a tight bend before going down next to the drain tube. You can see the air line bend...

I think it is the two brass elbows(45/53) next to the cold start spark plug, I will confirm when I get home.

HI Tom, teardown is complete, standing by for some parts for the rebuild. Also need to source one of those engine gasket kits you have and 2 more sets of rod bearings. The crank is smooth as silk, interior of the block is clean, no sludge. Only thing needing a cleaning is the water jacket...

I installed mine today, T201N and it fits. It says right on the package Detroit Diesel 50/60 series. The oil pan is steel.

Thanks for the trip report. One of the first plans for mine are a trip to a truck alignment shop.

Nice, I love the original packaging.

Yup, the gift that keeps on giving, popacom has some good take outs I'm pretty sure.

No, it looks like the engine was almost new inside, I am even going to try and salvage at least one sleeve, all the rods and pistons. I am going to split the bad sleeve and try and recover what I can, the other two actually passed oil and the third was not stuck at all. I will know more...

Yes, you should see two ports on the air box cover plate.

I see some on the big "E" from $120- $175, I would have my original rebuilt if was cost effective.

Looks nice, do see some civvy wire mods in the engine bay. Looks clean, would need to see the under side to determine if it was cut, that can be hid pretty well on top. I have had a lot of these and this one looks better than average.

Plan B was a success, tipped the engine on it's side and with a long bar tapped the sleeve assy. right out. Too bad they were stuck, the sleeve still had very heavy cross hatching, this engine was in very good condition. Oh, and it is for sure is wet sleeve, end of debate.

Tom, the connection comes down behind the starter right along side the air box drain tube.

Yes, from Canada. I thought it was 13Qt with filter change.

Tried the jack, all it did was lift the engine off the stand. Plan B is to take the engine back off this weekend, lay it on it's side and have more room to work with a large hammer and bar. On a more positive note the oil drain valve arrived today, this will make oil changes much easier, $20...

There is only one rubber line that actually goes to the round can, it exits the front of the can, goes under the drive shaft and attaches to the driver's side of the engine, all rubber. There is another small rubber line, 12-14" ahead of the can that attaches to the bottom of the air cleaner...

Mine does it.