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Opps! You busted me! I should've read it before posting, I have a M1008. (stupid fat fingers)

Wow, thats one tough read there! The JD engine swap (how can I say this nicely) is a piss poor idea! I have a M1008 and with stock 4.56 gears and a 700R4 tranny cruise at 70-75 without a problem. The rest of your post is just more or less gibberish.

:lol::funny: I'm sure you do! Years ago my then teenage son came home with an Chevy truck that was everything he didn't want. It was a 6 cyl. 3spd manual and a rot box. I replaced everthing including engine, transmission, cab bed and front sheet metal, all from parts I had in the garage. And...

When removing the old bolts I don't even try to unscrew them, just cut or tighten till they break. It's a PIA when you get them a bit loose and the they slip and start spinning then ya gotta figure a way to push them into the hole and hold them there.

The inside and outside handles use different linkages and clips so even if one is broken the other should release the door. Make sure its unlocking( Like cucvrus said) Some penetrating oil wouldn't hurt and make sure that the linkages are moving. IIRC the lock (not the lock cylinder) can get...

Thats some nice stuff but WOW pricy!

Nice swap but just a bit pricey for me. One question, is there a reason you didn't remove the fenders and core support to fit/install engine?

I too have a 700r4 and love it, much better on the road and with the 4.56 gears it chirps the tires going into 2nd and sometimes even 3rd. I've done this with a couple of trucks and have had one problem and that might be because of all the salt up here in NY, I didn't realize what was happening...

Not sure if over pressure would or would be a problem, with the stock mechanical pumps they can get a hole in the diaphragm and then leak back or into the engine oil either way the engine fires up and then dies and is then slow to restart

You've changed and checked the glow plugs so and shouldn't have a compression problem at 50K. Try this simple test with a cold engine go thru your normal start up routine then when engine starts shut it back down immediately, wait a couple minutes for it to cool down and then start it again. If...

Never seize is your friend! Find some and buy it and USE it. I slather that stuff on the center and all the lug studs and never have a problem getting wheels off. I also use it on radiator and heater hoses too, love that stuff just have a rag handy when disassembling parts cause its messy.

Could be a bad solenoid or bad brushes in motor or a bad connection between the two or even a bad connection at the main battery cable/starter. Do you have a remote hand held type starter switch? If so hook it up and with the wheels CHOCKED and parking brake applied lie under truck and press the...

A cab swap is pretty easy although it does seem to be a bit more work now than it did 20 years ago. If it mechanically sound than a new cab from down south would be a good investment. Look around on out of town craigs list adds and then take a road trip, buy the whole truck and tow it back...

Why drill? Just get the correct parts. There should all be available. Also is it a flywheel or a flexplate?

The left hand bit works good, just make sure it's sharp so it gets a good bite. If that fails try a sharp center punch and tap with a hammer with the punch held at an angle to unscrew it.

This may be a long shot but it's also worth checking, these trucks are old and so are the wires and connectors. I chased down a intermittent starter problem and it turned out to be the small purple (IIRC) wire that goes down to the starter solenoid, the wire itself was fine, it was loose in the...

Sure seems strange that the problems started when you fixed that elbow. Lift pump does seem to work as your getting fuel to the IP, The IP solenoid seems to work because you hear a click. Have you actually checked the voltage at the solenoid? Could you have switched the wires around and be...

A friend of mine ran a set of wheels like that (I'm not sure if exactly the same) and on a trip to Pa the right front wheel just folded over and collapsed in a turn. He then ditched them all in the scrap bin after beating them to keep anyone from using them. Your choice but I'd stay with OEM...

Yep, I've got an Blazer with military ID STICKER (not riveted plate) and red original paint and valor interior and full power including AC. IIRC it came off of Griffiss air base here in NY, it certainly wasn't used much as the body is not the typical NY rotbox