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No thread.
These are thicker rails, and galvanized.
I took apart a few and seen no cracks.
One weak area is between the 2 ears of the front upper A arm on lift tower.
Later towers added metal up top and filled in lower area which when bolted in, adds strength on rail.
I've had 3 different brands [ used ] LED's and found some of them did not fully work.
The early truck-lite's that have all wires numbers with white decals mostly did not work.
The later ones with colored wire number decals worked fine.
90+ % of Grote and Riverside brand worked fine.
All are...
Your 242 is dated 06, so its probably the good one.
There are two different 242's that can go behind the 3L80 trans....one has a 3 bolt tail shaft, one has 4 bolts.
3 bolt one has a smaller slip yoke.
I've had 3 and 4 bolt T/c's with the blue band on one tube.
The 4 bolt tail shaft T/C is also...
If you want a potential switch fire....and possibly burnt wires......then take a chance.
I just shipped some donor wires and switch connectors to a shop in Az. because of the neat Elect. light switch.
The good'ol lever switch is the way to go.
24 v compressor with proper wide surp belt pully are available [ redot or factory ], and can have a 12v relay with 24v pass thru when activated to operate compressor.
Same thing with relay can be done with the R/H fender unit which is readily available cheap.
I guaranty its cut.
They don't have the time to do the extra work to remove body properly which needs to be done.
you'll need trans X member, rear and mid drive shafts, maybe rear diff. yoke, dual brake light switch, shifter .
Looks good...hey,...looks like if you put the swiss cheese mount up on top...you won't be able to get the truck out of the garage .
Also...get rid of those fender soft top brackets.
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