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I am not sure about the "not the right nozzle for the injector" business. I thought the nozzles were interchangeable, regardless of the injector (shim or no shim style). Not sure what the problem is?
I think it was rustystud who posted about the "CuNiFer" lines. I have used them now as well, learning to do the inverted flare, and they are indeed a pleasure to work with. Absolutely fine for our trucks.
AFAIK there is no "low pressure rated" brake line. Either it is brake line or it isn't...
The nice thing about carrying it there is that it does not interfere with, lets say, getting a load of gravel. As for removing and putting it back, you can easily slide the extensions out on the deck and move the pipes individually. That is how I put it back up there. No need to strain your back.
https://www.steelsoldiers.com/upload/M35/TM9-2520-246-34.pdf
This should answer your questions. The Spicer 3052 transmission was used in the gasser trucks (M44) and has a different shift pattern than the 3053 used in the multifuels. 5th gear is direct drive in the 5052 and OD in the 5053. 4th...
I know that awful feeling....and the relief when you find out that it is a quick fix!
Good that you found that now. If you had run the engine, you would also have burnt you hand on the exhaust manifold for good meaure while tightening the nut, just so Murphy can have a better laugh.
A great time to to these little projects such as the pyro. If you are bored you can service the air compressor! Let me know if you want me to come up with other odd jobs for you! :-)
Urantian, I would AT LEAST install a battery disconnect ASAP, even if you do not plan to hunt for the problem (which, as you explain, may or may not really exist). That way, you can make your truck electrically safe. The last thing you want is two 24V batteries setting your truck alight and burn...
This is THE failure mode for the hydraulic brake light switch. Leave it plugged on the hydraulic side and replace with an air pressure operated brake light switch, similar to the upgrade the military did. Less failure-prone, safer and easy to change if need be without having to bleed the brakes...
Took Queen Lola for an after-work spin. Absolutely nothing to report, other than a fun, relaxing drive on rural roads and some gravel in beautiful Fall weather. No hiccups, no fuel starvation. I do have a question though. How hot should power steering fluid get? Mine gets darn hot - you do not...
You should be able to turn both wheels when both are off the ground, as you describe. The flange holds the outer end of the half shaft (driveshaft) and forces it to turn together with the wheel hub. Did the half shaft slide into the differential without issue? I am trying to visualize how it...
Yup, I hear ya! There is apprehension when you first crank it over and it catches.....then relief when it settles into a smooth idle....followed by more apprehension of "but will it STAY together?". For me, that did not go away for many, many drives to follow. I am good now. It has been two...
Honestly, I would use this as an excuse to go to your supply place of choice and get a length of cable and ends and make new battery cables. You can make a sleeve out of a rubber hose where it passes through the sheet metal opening as well. Plus, you know it is new and done right.
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