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Only $213,000, for a brand-new Humvee... Peanuts! :-P

Not! This kind of beadlock installs disassembled (like pictured), ends twisted apart, one end first, then you keep turning it around inside the tire until the other end just drops in place. Use some tire soap, it helps. Then the two straps are bolted in place. G.

... basically the same, slightly improved solution...:wink: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?123685-Any-easy-way-to-get-pins-out-of-door-hinges&p=1542455&viewfull=1#post1542455

Glad you got it fixed for now. G.

Be careful when taking shims out at the rear side; those are the ones which set the pinion depth! Better adjust to zero play (or very slight preload) by reducing shims at the front side! That, if both bearings are found to be OK, of course! No, the pinion nut(s ) have no influence, in this...

From factory it's a snug fit in the best case, and the cup (#29521) may have spun already, inside the housing. So, yes it could fall out, after that ("flange")retainer (#8757660) was removed. The retainer only keeps the cup in place but does not prevent the same from spinning. So take a closer...

Interesting question.

The chart in post #16 has the correct bearing number: BL308 Z NR (= 90×40×23 high load 11-ball deep groove ball bearing; one side shielded and the other side having a snap ring). G.

Did I say that...?:? No, I was referring to later, more recent transmissions, in general (like this one described here, for example...) Our good-old Spicers (#3052/3053) have never seen any changes, in all these years.

Sorry to hear - Sounds like another 5th-gear lost the fight... Keep us posted with what you found.

Tom, I used to think exactly the same way... And I fully agree with you that if it leaks while the input shaft is spinning, then something isn't right. But... I have seen this even with all-new transmissions, running on the bench: every time after a stop - a few hours later I had oil that came...

Read this thread (even if your's is a 5-ton)... (I have edited your title, to better fit the subject...) G.

Very true! A piece of flat-stock, 1-1/4"×1/4"×L=3-1/2", works well. During extreme articulation the ends may bend slightly outward, but that's OK; it still will prevent the rubber from popping off. The (sectional)drawing below gives a good idea of what that end bushing looks like, at maximum...

Sounds like you still have the early style brake line? If so you should try to find the parts to convert to the later style upgrade. The early style brake hoses are very short and subject to relatively high flexing. Below are extracts of the TMs trying to explain the difference... G.

Well, if- and after the turbo housing (and part of the inlet U-tube) got filled up high enough, fuel may finally get into the crankcase via the turbo bearings and oil return line. But I've yet to hear of someone actually experiencing this situation. ... Or even managed to start his engine, like...

With only the lift pump running? No way. Take a look into the elbow, how it is shaped where the spray nozzle is located. If this nozzle was defective, fuel may weep down into the turbo, but not into the intake manifold.

So now you love GM?;-)

Well, we learned already that fuel can get into the crankcase, for example if the booster pump seal is bad. (see this thread...) G.

How could that happen if only the fuel supply pump was running?:? G.

Yes it could... also, this could easily be imported into your country for a super-low tax, as "antique truck parts", which it is. But... the only carrier we had to ship this would be DHL, and that may cost you several hundreds. Let me find out how much and PM you back with results. G.