Search results

I'm saving for a centrifuge; my current filtration setup (down to 1 micron, and through 2 water-blockers & separators) still can't remove all the water & antifreeze that is present in my UMO/WMO. YMMV.

LOL, too old for that, thankfully! Looks like I'll bag it & throw it back behind the seat, thanks all!

If the lights are all wired in parallel from the same single wire, it could be too much amperage...in parallel, amperage rises as parallel connections are made. Test the amps going through the circuit.

My first UMO/WMO filtering setup sent the oil through various filters & water-blockers down to 1 micron (AMSOIL bypass filter, EaBP110). However, I am STILL getting water in my final filtered setup, in spite of my best efforts to filter/block water. Granted, my setup is temporary right now...

MWMULES, that trailer looks GREAT! Very nice finish, I'm sure the photos don't do it justice. Nice work!

So I finally got around to cleaning out the cab of my Deuce as I've been doing lots of little repairs/fixes here and there in preparation for trying to get it roadworthy soon...it sat for a couple of years out in the desert near 29 Palms, California, and the kangaroo rats & other critters made...

Just make sure there is more oil/petroleum than kerosene, petrol/gasoline, JP-8 in your fuel mix.

I like the IFS/IRS on the MXD models...bet those ride pretty awesome off-road!!

I'm interested. Armstrong steering + 46-inch radials = easy justification for p/s conversion.

Try it and see how it works. Try 80% petroleum and 20% kerosene JP-8 to start with, you can fiddle with different ratios from there.

Reminds me of my old tank company...we had a mechanic everyone called "Earl" because of his penchant to be able to tell you what type of lubricant a mystery substance was by dipping a finger in it & tasting it... "90-weight," "40-weight," "30-weight," "10-weight" is what would usually follow a...

I think the MF engine has a unique bellhousing that is between SAE2 & 3...make sure you get the bellhousing with the MF engine, and that will at least allow you to install a Spicer 3053 5-speed tranny. Hopefully those who know better & more will post soon.

To run petroleum/oil, make sure your FDC is hooked up and not bypassed. Do not run straight petrol/gasoline in your truck, but you can add gasoline to petroleum oil to thin it enough to run in your truck.

[thumbzup] Awesome!

Subscribed. I've been trying to track down various parts & pieces as well, but always run into roadblocks and dead ends with some of the silliest little parts (like suitable pullies and mounts). Hoses are no problem at all.

Sad....I've heard similar reasoning for NOT selling up-armored vehicles nor MRAPs to the civilian market. It's a shame that you are one of the contractors having to do the dirty deed! Too bad the up-armored portions couldn't be removed and the rest of the vehicles sold "as-is" at GL auctions...

Several look like they are in Australia; I've seen photos of some that were converted by Aussie farmers & ranchers to work on their land after the war. The Pzkw-IVs shown near the end look like the ones abandoned in the Golan Heights after the 1967 6-Day War. I remember when passing through...

How much for the tree?

Universal Caterpillar Key:

PB Blaster & an impact driver (and a BFH) usually do the trick for me. Heat is also a good technique. Of course the impact driver will only work on screws before they're rounded.... otherwise try Josh's suggestion for converting them to flathead screws & try the impact driver. My Harbor...