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My thought would still be to rebuild the pump, as the first option. If the pump seals are bad, it's possible that it would pump fluid with the hose off (no backpressure resistance) but that when trying to lift an actual load it would not be able to generate enough pressure and the fluid would...

I have access to a heavy duty scanner. I could unbind it, scan it, and [attempt to] reassemble it.

It should squirt out about a shotglass full with each pump, and fill a quart container in like 20 seconds of pumping. As NDT said, rebuilding the pump is probably the easiest place to start. There are instructions in the guide in my signature here (which is compiled from posts around here...

Sure, take a line off of something (e.g. cab latch), or the output line off the pump, and see if fluid comes out when you pump it.

I don't know the numbers for the A1, but if you give your engine serial number to a CAT dealer, they can tell you the filters for it.

The reservoir shown in the manual on the driver's side is for the winch, not the cab lift, tire lift, or suspension restraint (for air transport). The reservoir for the cab lift (and others I mentioned) is on top, behind the cab, between the spare tire and air snorkel. It's about the size of a...

What he has drawn is not actually different, he just misunderstood the original diagram. The original A0 diagram shows the 12V wire coming off in the center right of the diagram, pointing to the letters "12V". The diagram correctly shows 3 wires leaving the batteries (GND, 12V, 24V). So it is...

It was more just a "scientific method" thing. If you only took apart one thing, and it didn't leak before, it's the most likely single cause. Maybe it wasn't installed wrong, but the fitting got some dirt in it, there's a knick in an o-ring, or the new primer has a leak in the diaphragm...

If it's losing prime I would suspect the issue is with the fact that you changed the priming pump, and something now has a leak, was incorrectly installed, etc.

There are some posts around here about rebuilding the hydraulic pump, which I've compiled into a single guide in my fix-it document (here in my signature).

As Coffey said, the rubber part is supposed to be replaced each time you disassemble the fan, and not reused (per TM). Of course, nobody ever does that. So they languish for a decade or two until they get enough slop to vibrate themselves apart. I also suspect the problem is exacerbated by...

The people to really hate are the non-engineers that write the specifications requirements for this stuff. I know how to make great stuff, but 75% of the time I have to make something that I know is ridiculous because that's what the specs require (and they already have another team working on...

Just for someone who might read this in the future... I changed the transmission speed sensor, and it had no effect. The original controller still works (aside from the intermittent short) and the two used black replacement units still flash "CTIS Overspeed" above 30MPH.

There are almost always a few sets for sale on eBay. Of course that means that there are probably several SS members with them too.

The system is designed for the aircraft fluids that Aleigh listed, and you DO want to use them. They contain corrosion inhibitors that will keep the system from rusting out from the inside, as a number of owners have found while using regular hydraulic fluid. There is no particular design flaw...

No need to be sorry, I'm happy it's that definitive. The overspeed issue was really strange.

The TM has a detailed section about purging the hydraulic system while preparing the air-drop variant for transport.

Thanks. The way I'm reading that, the overspeed isn't flashing because it was changed, it's just that the new black controller behaves differently with regard to the overspeed warning (namely, if you air way down the overspeed will begin flashing continuously, and even after reaching propper...

The connections obviously work (as far as "CTIS Overspeed" goes) while the green controller is in place, so it would be hard to support that a faulty connection existed anywhere other than the controller connector itself. I do assume the flickering in the old green controller is a faulty...

It shifts pretty hard, I've thought mostly because it was brand new. They were replacing the transmission in my truck when they put it up for auction - Allison tech found a ground wire that needed to be moved to a different pin in the connector, and then it started right up.