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If you have just one component fail (e.g. cooler hard line), it's probably a smaller chance that it's a driveline vibration. Just making up numbers, I'm thinking like 25% chance. But if you fix it and "immediately" (within 50 miles) break another item on the list, I think that chance just jumped...

When I blew the water pump it looked the same. Coolant and steam spraying everywhere. I did address the other factors (e.g. off road use, tire vibrations) in my explanation, and I offroad mine too. I'm seeing these as more similar than dissimilar (same goes for the other stories, and the...

Do you start it after different amounts of sitting without being started (e.g. 1 day, 1 week, etc.)? Mine is pretty consistent in how terribly it starts in cold weather. At 70 degrees a few turns of the engine and it starts. Below freezing, it takes several long bursts (30 seconds) to get it to...

While I don't agree with this statement at all (the water boils because there is no pressure, or else it wouldn't boil, so there is no "high pressure steam" either), I don't think it's related. I'm not sure how closely you've read the other threads, or the military engineering reports, but it's...

Isn't that how pretty much everything breaks? It was working well for a long time, then it doesn't anymore. And three seemingly unrelated things breaking at essentially the same time should send you looking for an overarching cause, or it could all just be a coincidence. That's why I went...

Just so people are aware, there are previous threads on this where it has been talked about in depth. I'm surprised longtime members are finding this information new. The military engineering studies test other types of driveshaft and u-joint setups. They come to the conclusion / recommendation...

Yeah, you pay $20 for a short duration (week?) "membership" to the Caterpillar section. Once you do that, you can download all the Cat section files.

TM says by turning the alternator pulley (which I wasn't able to do by hand, but was able to do with a big socket and ratchet). Is there a post with instructions / pictures of this?

1. While the kit seems like a good idea, the "fix" is to have the driveshafts rebalanced/repaired, so unless the kit contained extra driveshafts you would likely fix the symptoms (e.g. alternator bolts, water pump stuff) and then break it again another half hour down the road. 2. Sure, pretty...

"How do the alternator, waterpump, and fan all break when they aren't connected together?". Unless it's all random chance, you have to shake all of them together. There are now several posts where the pattern of broken parts is almost the same... water pump, alternator, starter, fan...

I don't think you can get just an end cap, or at least I've never seen one separately. The u-joints are under $50/ea.

They're normal. You can find them, or equivalents, anywhere that carries heavy duty truck parts. There are a few other part numbers to try in my spreadsheet.

I agree, but the way I read the rules it is ok to post links to commercial products. People just don't like competition on auctions for rare stuff.

Or get a Dremel and carve a slot in it. I feel you. This is how my luck always goes too.

I don't think it's possible. What might be more likely possible is getting a 1/2" Grade-8 bolt that long, and having it fit. Or if 1/2" is too big (e.g. the holes aren't big enough clearance), drop down to a 7/16" bolt. 12mm = 0.472", but a standard tolerance clearance hole for a 12mm bolt is...

Well, that's why I was mentioning/wondering that everything on the truck has similar breathers/vents, with no real ill effects, and most of the other components aren't using special anti-corrosion oil or anything. If you put the cover (chem detector mount bracket) on, or some other shield, and...

The long bolt goes through the front ear on the alternator, then the whole length of the curved casting bracket, then the rear ear on the alternator. None of those parts are threaded. The bolt then gets a washer and locking nut on the back. The whole alternator is bolted in place with no...

Most of the trucks (as originally constructed) have a cover over the pump, so rain doesn't really have a straight path into it (any more than any of the other axle or transmission vents, etc.). Even with water in the fluid, the military anti-corrosion fluid will help it survive [longer].

For anyone that reads this thread in the future, the reason to use the red military fluid is that it contains anti-corrosion additives. Regular hydraulic fluid doesn't, and so over time your system/pump/cylinder/latch/etc. will rust out.

The cast curved alternator bracket should bolt to the engine block with 3 bolts and 1 stud (so a total of 4 "bolts" through it). The L-shaped bracket bolts to the top of the cast curved bracket with 2 bolts.