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Well, oil, say from a turbo seal, is an uncontrolled fuel source. When the fuel source is depleted, the engine will stop running. Saw a bus for USC running on on WVO/bio diesel fail an injector and run away, smelled like KFC!

There should be a vent line from the stat housing to the surge tank. It will purge itself through the vent line. It is a good idea to remove it and blow through it to make sure it isn't plugged...the vent line.

Any kind of smoke out the tailpipe? Black, blue, white? When it shut off, did it finally stop like someone put the brakes on or did it just kind of run out of fuel and slowly come to a stop? Have you checked your oil? Are the fuel filters now dry?

Here's one I made years ago after breaking 3 of those cad plated pos wrenches the surplus dealers were selling.

Alternator? Pics and/or what engine....besides "Cummins".

^^^this, and, IIRC,it is on the metal data plate on the dash

Let me turn on a few fans and push the weather we are having her your way.

Again, WHERE in LA are you? I might know someplace that can accommodate your project.

Have things thawed out enough to work on things?

This thread is almost 10 years old, Military Restorations has not been active since 2015, kinda doubt he will answer.

Auto parts store should be able to look up the pigtail needed

Hey Brad, you can also slip a BCIII into your truck. Same footprint, better components like a holset turbo, factory bypass oil filter...you can ditch the 750 filter.

I agree with the above. I do these kind of things for a living. You need to be on a flat surface. A couple of inches off level is one thing, as much of a slope your pic shows is dangerous for the people working on it. Find a flat spot. Where in LA are you?

Easy to install, plumb a line from a main oil rifle to the spinner and from there back to the sump, not necessarily the pan, just to a hole into the crankcase, you could even return to the v/c if needed. It is just a bypass filter, the orifices in the spinner will regulate the flow so it doesn't...

I have seen these work. The goo that comes out is remarkable. http://www.spinnerii.com/index.cfm/div/61/Fleet.Trucking There are a couple of different units, .8, 1 and 2 gpm

And....the turbo is a muffler.... according to Ca law. If you think a multi is loud, wait 'till you run a straight pipe gasser out by the window!

To change the bushing in the cover, the accessory drive needs to be removed....can not do it with the shaft sticking through the front. There is timing involved with that procedure.

If it has scored liners, that is the most likely issue for the coolant on the oil. When the piston and liner decide to swap material, the lower seals get real hot, bake and crack. They then put coolant in the oil. You need to find out WHY the cylinders scored. Heads don't crack too often unless...

This is a 10 year old thread! The sleeve is on the pulley, no oil hole. The BUSHING is in the gear cover, there IS an oil passage to align. If you can't eyeball it, use a marker and draw a line straight out from the oil passage, drop it down over the edge of the bore. Draw a like on the outside...

Hot water with Dawn dish soap and wash the engine. Put some miles on it, sometimes leaks will seal up if an engine/chassis has been dormant for a long period of time. They will not seal up if capscrews are loose but if they are tightened up, they might. 50/50 chance.