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I know very little about the history of this generator, I bought it from GL a couple of years ago, dealt with a few typical minor issues to get it running. It is painted with solid green CARC and is missing most of the usual stencil markings, unit marking implies it belonged to a National...
Well It looks like I am having a blowby problem on my MEP-003a, and am debating if it is economical to try to salvage it, or if I should look for one of those rebuilt engines that seemed to be everywhere a year or two ago, but seem to have all disappeared now. Any suggestions with the cost of...
I too would flush it out, but I would use something that evaporates, gasoline is a traditional, although potentially flammable option, and gasoline residue will not harm diesel, in fact you can run diesel engines with 5-10% gasoline mixed in generally with no serious problems.
I agree nice big variable DC power supply, probably worth a couple of hundred dollars even with the old analog gauges, although it is really overkill for most uses.
When you check it run it for a bit, I had an overcharging problem that cooked my first battery on my MEP-701a, but it would not start over charging until the generator had ran a few minutes. Thankfully the new style "southern automotive" voltage regulators look completely different from the old...
Personally I would not pay too much for it as it seems the insulation in the generator ends on this model has not aged well. I know of message threads online where people have swapped generator ends multiple times trying to get a good one. Also remember these are Vietnam era 3600 rpm...
I think both my MEP-002a and MEP-003a are missing that little cover also. For best results I suggest you start your own thread and describe your problem in detail there.
Sure it would, but then you would be essentially splitting that 3KW generator into 3 1KW generators and then throwing out one of them since no off the shelf transfer switch will take connections from a split single phase panel and put them into a 3 phase transfer switch panel, if such a thing...
That receptacle (L5-30) for the transfer panel is a 3 wire 30 amp 120V volt twist lock plug (opposite gender from a typical outlet), it is also the largest common 120V twist lock so is the appropriate plug / outlet for the size and voltage you need. Most of these small transfer switches will...
Assuming the refrigerator and freezer are reasonably modern I don't think you will have any problem powering your listed load with this generator. I am somewhat concerned about your knowledge of electricity though, or at least as it relates to this generator. Since I am not sure about your...
The only thing I spot off hand is the safety retaining wire that keeps the nut from falling off and getting lost from the top split bolt connection is missing. Is there something in particular you are trying to do that you don't understand, or something you see, or a specific question you want...
You should have a split bolt terminal, similar to the split bolt connector shown in this image
You simply place the exposed part of the wire in the groove and tighten the nut down so it presses the follower into the strands of the wire. Yours will of course have insulation on the wire except...
bhagwan11, I am just going to jump in here and say you see a wide variation of opinion on what needs to be done before first start attempt, ranging from hook up batteries, fuel, oil, flip the switch and pray, all the way to doing a full rebuild before you even try to start it. Personally...
Sorry can't help on that, but here is the manual for the H82 / H83 which are very similar http://www.liberatedmanuals.com/TM-5-4520-256-14.pdf (I think the main difference is the H81 is in a slightly different cabinet.
I don't know the exact surge rating on the newer TQG MEP military generators, but the older MIL-STD MEP military were rated at 300% rating for motor starting purposes, although many would trip their breakers before that. As to the water heater, if you do connect it I would put an easy to use...
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