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Left Maine 9pm Thursday night, drove straight through to ziggyo's in NJ and picked up some trailer bows, it was 6am and still dark so no pictures there. Left ziggy's and headed to Phila, PA to pick up a MKT for WPNS421. Arrived in Phila. around 8am and picked up the MKT at Eastern Surplus. First...

I could move it this Friday, short notice, and would have to alter travel plans but it could work. Call me asap. I am headed to NY state(dogheads) from Maine with an empty F-350 truck. 207-271-0078

I have all the info but not handy right now. There are three boxes, not sure why they needed three but one senses the speed of the pto shaft which tells the engine control where to position the throttle, one protects from overspeed, one is a ramp generator which senses the load and one keeps...

I have a NOS original, newer style with metal body. $40 shipped. PM if interested.

Check the resource section, there is a document from GM talking about upgrading the valve in the IP which yours should have and also a anti drainback lift pump. If the lift pump is original I would replace it. Also carefully check the fuel filter for leaks.

Yes, I sold all 600 rather quickly. They were never made aftermarket for some reason, perhaps the hummer version is the same? I don't even have a spare for myself!

I just stripped out a laundry trailer, a picture of what you need would help, all I am keeping is the generator and bare trailer. Mark

The start and die issue is most likely a fuel /air leak. Sounds like the meter is defective, to confirm, pull the dash panel and check to see if there is voltage there with the key off. Front battery not charging, check with multimeter while running, should show around 14volts if it's charging.

I have a 24v 100amp MEP-026A I use as backup for my off grid system, no need to convert anything, the dc generators usually go cheap.

Thank you, took a chance and re attached the wire to the outlet breaker, works fine now, the tape looked almost factory applied, perhpas something to do with the laundry trailer install. My mistake on the no voltage at the terminal lugs, I had the voltmeter on DC!, all works fine now.

Just fired the 10k for the first time, ran it right up to 60hz, voltmeter shows 120v but I have no power at the outlets or terminals, breaker is closed. I removed the side cover under the terminals and I notice one wire has been removed from the circuit breaker next to the outlets and is taped...

Does not control idle speed, there is a temp sensor pass side head that controls high idle speed. Unless the wiring is bad it is not repairable. Based on engine temperature it tells the glow plug controller to activate or not, there is a troubleshooting proceedure in the manual that explains...

The blower assy looks identical to what's attached to the M151 jeep heater box. m151 m151a1 m151a2 mutt military jeep heater:eBay Motors (item 150373853533 end time Sep-24-09 18:38:22 PDT)

You probably have a 12volt charger so make sure you are on just one battery at a time while charging. The glow plug card has nothing to do with the starter. As mentioned before it sure sounds like the relay is bad. Charge each battery individually before trying to start it again and verify...

Upper passenger side and lines going under the manifold sounds like the fuel filter assy.

Saturn Surplus has them NOS for $25, just bought one and did the same job you are, not hard just time consuming.

I was up there last weekend, like said it's all one lot. Given the location this would be an expensive loadout for what's left, there are a few M37's, M35' and associated big trailers. I bought an M151 from him but I see all the M151 stuff is gone. Auction is tomorrow. There is a really clean...

flmv.net has them in the box, I think they were around $80, I recently installed one in my truck and it works great.

6 meter ham, 50-54Mhz is what you would be using them for.

Looking for someone to repair a PRC-104, any leads appreciated. Thanks