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Put it together, drive it and check hub temperatures. If you cannot touch and leave your bare hand on the hub after a good drive, it is too hot. If it isn't and the bearing is adjusted correctly, don't worry about it.

Inquiring minds want to know....have been looking at a couple S-280 lately....

There is only one justification. The truck is my hobby. Otherwise I could never justify buying 1.5k in parts and assorted stuff to refresh a $600 multifuel that goes into a $4500 truck. And then adding $1000 in torque rod ends. And...and...and. At the end of the day, we are all a little crazy...

I usually struggle with my default "thrift" setting. In this case, rationale prevailed and I am glad I put in the better parts. It is the same amount of labour, after all. I am still amazed at how much calmer the rear end is, going over bad roads. I had experimented with lower air pressure...

If you are not put off by the higher cost, there are upgraded torque rod ends available as well. https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?67703-What-did-you-do-to-your-deuce-this-week/page744 Post #7439

Careful with that. The MSD for my can of Prestone Starting Fluid says: 40-70% ethyl ether, 25-40% heptane (a hydrocarbon) and the balance is CO2. So, yes, it is not 100% ethyl ether, but a whopping amount is. My point was just that the ether injection system delivers a metered dose that is...

The military replaced the flame heater with an ether kit. You can actually use the flame heater switch to operate the ether injection solenoid. It provides a minimal, exactly metered dose of ether (as opposed to the huge amounts of "starting spray" humans would unload into the intake). If you...

Which ones are they? J.W. Speaker? Trucklite?

Have you tried with the transfer case in low and first gear? I bet it'd fit then!

Well, there is a big machine company in China that makes AMBAC compatible parts. http://www.chinahanji.com/01_hd90100.htm I used their hydraulic head (works) and their injector nozzles (work) on an LDT-465. Someone here with more technical knowledge bench tested the assemblies and they checked...

Yup, beware of the "while I am in there...." ideas. An engine swap can become an engine refresh that way. Ask me how I know..... Use caution! Just fix what needs to be fixed. And maybe do an upgrade while you are in there! :-)

I would not even know what to lift with such a truck...until I got one...then I would probably forget how I ever managed without one! Your truck looks benign but is a serious piece of kit.

That is the problem with using imprecise, unscientific language in technical-scientific reports. You could be right...the rollover angle could be, say, 55 degrees. That means, 25 degrees are ROUGHLY HALF of the rollover angle. Or, the truck rolls over at precisely 45 degress, in which case 25...

A few other cool little tidbits...like to store the hydraulic jack either standing up or with the rubber air valve facing upwards. The fact that they have thimbels and lug nuts on the front (as used on the rear duals) is un-cool. The shovel method works and is a back saver. The French commentary...

I did not want to hijack someone else's thread with this. Given that the military inclinometers come from the LMTV series (or even other trucks and equipment), the range of the scale and the red marks may or may not be useful for the M35A2. The US Army Tank Automotive Command did not...

No updates, yet. It has been raining constantly. I worked days under a tarp a few weeks ago to do the axles but have little motivation to do it for less essential stuff.....

Can I just take the FDC off without removing the IP from the truck or will I immediately lose several irreplacable parts as they fly off in all directions?

Thanks for posting this as a reminder. The winch looks innocent enough, but can become a dangeropus piece of kit very quickly. Winching with this setup is one of the activities where you should take a second before you start, close your eyes and think through, step by step, how you will react...

Thanks for the thoughts. What I can do, if/when it happens again, is to let go of the fuel and hit the clutch. If the engine stalls, it is a no-fuel situation. I will put a pressure gauge on the secondary filter and see what the in-tank pump delivers.

I can add diesel fuel lubricant.