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FWIW, when removing the old (military installed) knuckle boot on my driver side, the INNER axle clamp bolt was in the 5 o'clock position and the OUTER axle clamp bolt was in the 10 o' clock position. The boot was not torn in those locations.
In the process of doing this job right now.
- no need to remove brakes (as already mentioned). Zip off the 12 nuts holding the backing plate and ring to the knuckle, carefully remove the whole brake assembly and hang it out of the way without stretching the brake hose
- steering arm: after...
Yes, you can. The engine can be in-frame overhauled. The working under the truck part sure sucks, but if you lift the frame up a bit you get even more clearance between front axle and oil pan.
Here is a post from someone who did it...
Well, the good news is that you have always wanted to do the head gasket anyway....right? Just drop the oil pan and you are in business! Trying to cheer you up!
rsites, I can only stress what has been said already. THE BRAKES MUST BE GONE THROUGH.
For one, this is not a commercial rig where a quick peek behind the drum shows lining thickness. You need to actually remove a cover on the brake drum to inspect. These are not air brakes with an automatic...
This is blow-by from the cylinders. Take the oil filler cap off and watch what comes out with the engine idling. Does it look like this? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MbfPXLk04dQ
A compression and a leak-down test will tell you more about the condition of your rings.
This bugged me enough to do a comparison.
Here is the TIMKEN/NATIONAL 412119 seal made in the USA: it is a double-lip seal with a steel spring on the inner (oil) side.
Here is the NewStar (or similar) 7521241: this is also a double lip seal with a steel spring on the inner side. The inner...
I put the Waterloo gears in and have no regrets. I will say that it was somewhat intimidating to rip into the transmission but it leads to what is effectively a tranny overhaul (you can put new bearings in while you are at it) and the road manners of the Deuce with the new 5th gear are very...
I need to replace a pinion seal and looked at the replacements. They look different than the original seals that are in the axle (dare I say..."cheaper"). I can't figure out which side faces the oil side.
Here is a pic of the seals from a vendor...
Installed all 12. See post in "what did you do to your deuce this week". https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?67703-What-did-you-do-to-your-deuce-this-week/page744 #7439
Chirps...as in metal on metal? Fan blade contacting shroud? Water pump? Air compressor? Sorry, just guessing from what you provided.
A quick and dirty way is to loosen all V-belts as much as you can so no accessories are driven, and listen whether the chirp is still there.
Tackled the rear hubs today. Drum/hub assemblies cam off for cleaning, all bearings inspected/repacked, seals inspected/replaced. I did not feel like duct taping the spindle threads and made a protector instead. 2 in PVC pipe, cut a segment out, snaps right over the threads and stays on well...
Inspected and serviced the trunnion (spring seat) bushings. Also drilled and tapped the covers for grease zerks (I opted to locate them facing at a 45 degree angle downward, rather than on top of the cap; less risk of water seeping in). The military welded a massive plate steel trailer hitch...
Installed 80A alternator from Wolverine. Regulator on my mil spec alternator was letting go; at random, the belts would screech and the output voltage went through the roof.
Wolverine's unit comes anodized olive green, has a nifty bracket to support the rear and uses the original front mount...
Here is some info on plugs that look like they might fit: https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Female-Field-Wirable-Assembly-Straight-6_60691022040.html?spm=a2700.7724857.main07.95.2bd13975PLk9ve
Here is some info on the tach. Also, if you contact Erik's, he might have a fitting female plug...
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