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Personally I like cheap sub $10 hair driers, they are very portable, and at around 1,500 watts each on high in the real world (for 1,875 watt on the label) they give you a fairly broad range of test loads.

I agree it sounds like you did good, the tank sender may be a hard to find part, but is at least not critical for operation. I paid $400 for a MEP-002a about 2 years ago from GL that was also an ugly duckling (brush painted CARC camo), only problems were a bad battery gauge and a bad AC voltage...

The problem here is when you are generating 120V only on a generator the concept of neutral is relative. You are in reality generating 120V line to line, this is not exactly the same as the 120/240V split single phase power that comes into most homes. You can designate one of these 120V lines...

The size of most transfer switches is caused by the NEC rules on things like bending radius of the largest size wire they are rated for, etc. Remember unlike breaker boxes these tend to have large wire not just feeding in once, but feeding in twice, and out once (assuming large generator that...

When I picked up my Mep-003a from GL the red cable was connected to the frame and black cable to the starter, which could give anyone good reason to double check.

Check ebay for mep-002 parts I think someone had these listed a couple of months ago

Check the ground strap connections on the control box

I have a pair of Exide Classic group 51R's on my MEP-002a which has a fairly new (2008?) Southern Automotive built type 1 starter and they don't have many cranks in them before draining down, I suspect it would be better if I had a type 2 gear reduction starter instead. I swapped the older type...

Is the solenoid on the intection pump actuating when you try to start and is the lever moving to the full open position?

I would double check those numbers, something is not adding up, and also check output at the front panel outlet

True, but the original poster is likely not talking about drained batteries which have a higher charge acceptance ability, since his system was raising not lowering charge voltage after several minutes of operation.

Ok, will cook conventional lead acid batteries

I have to disagree here, over time 30+ volts out of the charging system will cook batteries

Or it may be that the original outlets on these were not GFCI so it was disconnected for ground fault safety reasons

Check to make sure the little push to reset AC breaker is working, I had one that had to be cycled a few times to get the fron panel outlet to work. Ike

I have one too, good unit, direct drop in replacement

I have one that does the same thing (also swapped out the transitors), ended up swapping out VR boards with the intention of getting around to trouble shooting the old one and keeping it as a spare. Ike

You might also have a bad capacitor on the charging circuit draining you batteries while the unit is off, a cheap fix is adding a simple battery cut off switch while it is not in use. Ike

Last year it was about $30-$50 per injector depending on if it needed a new nozle, this is for basic service / pop off pressure adjustment, not a full rebuild, new old stock they sell for about $130

The 180 volts seems odd, is that using the panel meter or a multi meter (panel meters should be suspect) usually these units fail voltage high, with about 155 VAC in place of 120 VAC. If it has the correct throttle cable installed (neither my MEP-002a or MEP-003a do, and each are different)...